

L 



fTST-* 



/„ 7 










^ 



ARTISTIC 



Ca<die$' Sailor Sy5tem 



Jv££- 



Copyrighted 1898 



iimnNnnftahnnR?fflnitflnRn 



V*7 



TO TAKE MEASURE. 



156 



BUST. — Stand behind the lady — this measure is 
taken over the most prominent point of the bust and 
-well up over the shoulder blades in the back — take 
this measure easy, "not tight," just so that the tape 
line will be smooth — put this measure down 1 inch 
more than the tape line calls for — " do not forget 
this." 

WAIST. — Take this measure around the smallest 
part of waist tight. 

FRONT.— From collar bone to waist line in front 
— add i inch to this measure. 

BACK. — From joint in neck to waist line. 

UNDER ARM. — Take this measure well up un- 
der the arm and down to the waist line — put this 
measure down " y? inch less " than the tape line calls 
for. 

SHOULDER.— Place the end of the tape line 
against the neck snug where the collar joins the dress 
and measure to the point of the shoulder. 

NECK. — Around the bare neck easy. 

ARM'S EYE. — Around the arm very snUg just 
below the point of the shoulder. 

ARM MEASURE, 
i st. From point of shoulder to point of elbow — the 

hand resting on the chest. 
2d. From point of elbow to ioint on wrist. 
3d. Around the largest part of the arm below the 

shoulder with the arm bent — take this measure 

smooth — not too tight. 
4th. Around the largest part of the arm below the 

elbow — take this measure in the same manner. 
5th. Around the hand tight. 

SKIRT. — From waist line the length desired. 

HIPS. — Around the hips "easy" 6 inches below 
the waist line. 



FOR A TEST MEASURE. 



Take the measure from the centre of the back 
(beginning 5 inches down from dot 2) to the arm- 
hole (or where the arm-hole should come). 

Measure the front in the same manner beginning 
5 inches down from dot 2. 

IMPORTANT.— The measure should be taken 
exactly as the instructions call for — do not deviate 
to please any one. Should the arm's eye be larger 
than the neck then use the neck measure in its place 
in making your draftings. The bust, waist and neck 
measures are taken in even inches — for instance, 
should the waist measure be nearest 23, put down 23, 
— should it be nearest 22 put it down 22 — take the 
bust and neck measures in the same manner. 

See that the lady stands natural and on both feet. 
Ask if she has the same clothing on that she intends 
to wear, the dress over, and especially inquire about 
the corset. To have a perfect fit you must have a 
perfect measure. 

If you have any doubt about the measure take it 
over again before the lady leaves. Do not use a 
cord or belt in taking the measure (except for chil- 
dren) as it will make your basque short-waisted in 
back and front. For a very full bust the front 
measure should be taken from x% to 2 inches longer 
than the tape line cans ior. 

For high shoulders dot 10 in the back should be 
from 3 to 3^ inches up from dot 9, and dot 21 
in the front should be but \% to 1^3 inches above 
dot 20. 

In drafting for a large waist measure where the 
darts are 1% inches or less, it is well to add Yz inch 
to each dart and make a new dot 7 one inch outside 
of dot 7 and draft a new line E. 



TO LOCATE THE HEIGHT OF SHOULDER. 

Be very careful in taking the back and under arm measure. For a regular form a 16 inch back would 
require an 8 inch under arm. Should the under arm measure 9 inches it would indicate a high shoulder 
and dot | should be only 3 inches from dot 9- Should the under arm measure be but 7 inches for 
a 16 inch back it would indicate a low shoulder and dot | should be 5 inches from dot 9> This 

propoition will apply to other measures — for instance, if the back measure is 17, then the under arm 
measure should be 9 inches. 

IMPORTANT. — Never draft the shoulder shorter than one-half inch less than the proportionate 
houlder measure, no matter what the measure is. 







CENTER BACK. 

Draft lines A and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of cloth. 
Place dot 2 on line A an d from line 3 the distance given in 
the table under dot 2 according to size of neck. 



Bust 

Waist 

Front 

Back 

Under Arm - 

Shoulder, 

Neck 

Aim's Eye - 



To Locate Dot 12. 

ARM'S EYE MEASURE. 



Dot 2 


/8 


% 


n 


% 


5/8 


Neck Size 


7 
% 


8 

n 


9 
i 


IO 


n 


■2 [l3 


14 
i$A 


is 


16 

ij3 


17 18 


Dot 3 


2 |2JHJ 



8, 9 and 10 
11 " 12 

13 " M 

15 " 16 
, 7 " t3 



1 ^ inches- 
2 

234 " 



Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in neck table under 
dot 3. 

Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q to dot 3- 

Place dot 4 on line \ the length of back measure below dot 
2- Draft line p straight out from dot 4- Place 

dot 5 onc inch from dot 4 on line D, 

Place dot 6 the distance from dot 5 that the table gives for 
the width of center back, 

Draft line £ beginning 4 inches below line g, and drafting 
through dot 5 extending V^ inches below, Place dot "J-o 

inches straight clown from dot 5- Place dot 8 — X A inch toward 
line 4 from dot ~] . Draft line p from dot 8 to the end of lne 
|. Place dot 9 — ^> l A inches from dot 3 on h re Bi 

Place clot I — 4 inches straight down from dot 9- 
Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot | and draft 
line H the proportionate length of shoulder. See table. With- 
out moving the curve, place dot | J the actual le igth of shoulder 
on line \{ Place d >t J 2 — 2 inch.s straight down from the 

end ot the line Jfl Place the point of curve on dot || and 

draft line J to dot | 2 Place letter \f on dot 12 and draft 

line K to dot g. Draft line Q straight down from dot g. 

When the linings are tulled they must be cut Y> inch 
longer than the measure. For high or low shoulders 

change the position of dot jQ up or down. For \%ry high 

shoulders dot \ should be only 2j4 to S inches from r !ot 9- 

SIDE BODY. 

Place long arm of square on line A in the back, drafting the 
short arm resting on dot 12 and draft line N straight cut from 
dot 1 2- Place dot 2 on line ^ 2% inches from dot 12 

Place dot 3 on nne D 2l A inches from dot g. Place letter 

V on dot 2 and draft line A to dot 3 extending ]/ 2 inch 1 elow 
dot 3- Place dot 4 on line D the distance from dot 3 

given in the table for width of side body. Place dot 5~M inch 
from dot 2 on l :ne H Place letter jf| on dot 4 and draft line 

g to dot 5- Piace dot g on line § 1 >4 in-ehes from dot 5- 

Draft line JJ from cl >t 2 to dx 6 Wlt h the p .int of curve. 
Place dot 7 on ii ne D V^ incn 0,lt from d it 4 Measure 5 

inches stra.ght down from dot 7 - inr l place dot 3- PI <-ca letter 
A on dot 4 and dratt line £ to dot 8- Place dot 9 on l'n ■ D 

one inch in from dot 3- Measure 5 inches straight down from 
dot 9 and place dot j 0- Draft line p from the end of 1 ne 
A to dot I 0- 

UNDER ARiVl SHAPE. 

Place dot 2 otl ii ne D 3 inches from dot 4 (i n the side 
body.) Place dot 3 the width of under arm shape (as given 
in the table) out from dot 2- Place the corner of the square 

on dot 2 the short arm even with line |) an I measure straight 
up the distance between dots 4 and g in the side b idy .ind 
place dot 4 P ace do: 5 — % inch s r light out from do - 4 

Place dot g straight oat from dot 4 the width ot un ler arm 
shape. Place the corner of square o 1 dot 3 L he edge on dot 

g and measure up from dot 3 the length of under arm m -as ire 
and place d )t ~] . Place letter Q 0:1 dot 5 and draft line fr to 
dot 2- Plaoe letter j]y| on d >t "J and dra t line !| to dot 3 

Draft l : ne C from dot 5 to dot "J with the poi it of tie curve. 
Pla:e dot 8 on nne D 1^ inches in from dot 2 Place dot 9~ 
5 inches straight down from dot 8- P'ac • letter ^ 01 dot 2 

and draft line £ to dot 9- Place dot | on li 10 g V± inch out 
from dot 3- Place dot | | — 5 inches straigh djwn from dot 

I • Place letter A ° :1 dot 3 and draft line p to dot 1 1. 




■5V -"SX 








To Locate Dot 10 From Dot 8. 

WAtST MEASURE, 



18 tO 20 
2 I tO 23 

24 to 27 

2 7 & 28 
29 & 30 

3 1 & 3 2 



1 inch 



Hi 

2 
21/ 



Above 32 inches the same preportion. 
To place clot 12 from dot 11. 

WAIST MEASURE. 

19, 20, and 21 — y z inch. 
22, 23 and 24 — 24 inch. 
25, 26 and 27 — 1 inch. 
28, 29 and 30 — 1)4 inch. 

above 30 inches in same preportion, 



FROftlT. 

Draft line A 1 y inches from the edge of cloth Draft 

line B one inch from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A 
and from line B the distance given in the table for front neck 
under dot 2 according to size of neck. 



_Dot^2 I 2 I 2^p^|2^| 3 \3)i\3H[3H} 4 HY^yiWA 

Nee <. S'^e, / 



Dot 3, 



1 J H 



2 2 'A 2X 2^ 2'M 2%\ 2^ 2% 



J 5 



16 



3 l A 



3% 



3H 



PI icedot 3 on line B the distance given in the front neck 
table under dot 3. Place letter C on dot 2 and draft line C 
to clot 3. Place clot 4- online A 6 inches more than y of 

the arm's eye measure below line B. Place dot 5—4 inches 

above d t 4. Place the comer of square on dot 5 and draft 

line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5. Place 

clot 6 at the front bust size on line D from dot 5. "See table" 
P.acedot 7 the lengfh uf under arm measure straight down 
from dot 6. Place letter A on dot 7 and draft line E to 

dot 6. Place dot 8 the length of front measure on line A 

below dot 2. Place letter H on dot 8 and druft line F to 

dot 7. Place dot 9 on line K 2 inches below dot 6. Place 

the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 
G out 5 inches beginning 2 inches from dot 4. Place dot 10 
en line V 1 y inches from dot 8. Place dot 11 the width of 
the first dart from dot 10 -'See table for distance," Place 
dot 12—% inch from II. Place dot 13—^ inch more than the 
w clth of the first dart from dot 12. Place dot 1 4 on line G 

and from dot 4— >4 inch mo.e than the distance between dot 8 
and the center of the first dart. Place dot 15 on line G and 

from dot 4— X inch more than the distance between dot 8 and 
the center of secoud dart. Place the y 2 mark on dot |0 

and draft line f| to dot [4. Draft line | J and K in like 
manner. Draft line I straight down from dot \Q. Place 

d t |6~ 6 inches straight clown from the center of the first dart 
Draft line Rjj from dot || to dot |g. Draft 

clown from dot | 2 Place dot | "]- 

from the center of second dart. 
dot I 7. Place dot 



line N straight 
-6 inches straight down 
Draft line f>om dot | 3 to 
18 — l3 A inches straight out from dot ~] . 
Place dot j 9—5 inches straight down from dot | 8. Place 

letter fl on dot 7 and draft line p to dot | 9. Place dot 20 

on g 6V 2 inches from dot 3 . Piace dot 2 I —finches straight 
down from dot 20- Place letter fl on dot 3 the edge of the 

curve on dot 21 and draft line Q the pioportionate length ot 
the shoulder. "See table." Without moving the curve place 
dot 22— 'A inch less than the actual length of shoulder on line 
Q. Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q to D 

Place dot 23 on line R \y 2 inches above line Q. Place dot 

24 one inch straight in from dot 23. Place letter Q on dot 
24 and draft line $ to dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 and 

extend line 5 to dot 22- 

The Front can be curved if desired. Place a new dot 2 
y 2 inch inside of dot 2 Place letter £ on new dot 2 and 

draft a curved line J to meet line fl 1 y. inches be low dot 4. 

Place letter || on the end of line J edge of curvi on dot 8 
and continue line J about 3 inches below the waist line. See 
dotted lines." 

Important— The front shoulder is cut % inch shorter than 
the back and must be stretched to meet the back s loulder. 

COPYRIGHT 1898. 




BDS^ 



48 



BUST 



49 



Waisfc 


26 


27 


28 


2y 


iO 


51 i32 


33 


34 


35 [36 


37 


38 


3y 


Waist 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


58 


3y 


Bust No. 


H 


121 


121 


.121 


12* 


12J12J 


12 


,2 


HI 111 


11? 


m 


in 


Bust No. 


123 


12f 


123 


121 


121 


121 


121 


12* 


12* 


12 


12 


12 


Darts 


n 


H 


n 


2* 


n 


2 


2 


n 


If 


M 


n 


H 


H 


i* 


Darts 


n 


n 


2| 


n 


2* 


2* 


2 


^ 


If 


l 3 

-*-8 


13 

8 


n 


Center Back 


i 


l 


i* 


14 


u 


n 


H 


n 


li 


H 


if 


n 


2 


2* 


0. B. 


1 


1 


n 


n 


n 


n 


H 


H 


If 


2 


2 


2* 


Side Body 


2 ' 


n 


H 


2| 


2 


n 


2| 


2f 


3 


3* 


.31 


3i 


3? 


4 


S. B. 


2* 


2* 


2? 


n 


n 


H 


3* 


3* 


31 


31 


31 


3f 


Under Arm 


H 


H 


H 


3i 


3| 


31 


31 


4 


4 


4* 


4* 


4* 


H 


4i 

*2 


U. A. 


31 


31 


3| 


4 


4 


4 


H 


4* 


4* 


4-i 


4i 


*1 



BUST 



50 



BUST 



51 



BUST 



52 



Waist 


32 


33 54 


35 


36 


37 


38 


3y 


40 


Waist 


id 


34 


35 


36 


37 


[458 


3y 


40 | Waist 


35 136 


37 


38 


39 


40 |4i 


Bust No. 


13 


13 13 


123 


123 


123 


12J 


L2i 


12* 


B. No. 


13 


13 


123 


12f 


121 


12i 


12* 


12*! B. No. 


13*131 


13 


13 


123 


121121 


Darts 


H 


2 1 2 


If 


1? 


H 


l-i 


U 


■M 


Darts. 


2* 


2} 


2 


If 


H 


If 


1* 


1* 


Darts 


•2i 


2* 


2 


If 


1* 


1* 


1* 


Center Back 


H 


1* i* 


H 


H 


If 


n 


If 


2 


C. B. 


1* 


li 


H 


H 


1* 


If 


if 


2 


C. B. 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


2* 


Side Body- 


n 


2| 


3 


3 


3* 


3* 


31 


3f 


4 


S. B. 


3 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3i 


31 


3f 


S.B 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3* 


3+ 


Under Arm 


H 


«i 


31 


4 


4 


4 


4* 


4* 


41 

*2 


U. A. 


4 


4 


4* 


4* 


4| 


H 


n 


4| 


U.A. 


4* 


4* 


4* 


*i 


H 


41 


5 



BUST 



CHILDREN'S MEASURES.-One Dart Only. 



21 



22 



23 



24 



Waist 
Burt No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body- 
Under Arm 

BUST 



w 


20 


21 


5 


5 


5 


41 

1 


5 
1 


1 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 



I Bust No. 
j Front Wai°t 
[Center Back 
I Side Body 
i Under Arm 



5* 
4| 

1 
1 

2 



5J 

1 

1! 

2* 



5 

C3 
°4 

1 

2 
2* 



Waist 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 1 


Bust No. 


H 


51 


51 

<» 2 


5* 


5|l 


b'ront Waist 


4| 


5* 




5f 


H 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


I 


1 


Side Body 


13 


If 


2 


2 


2 


Under Arm 


2 


2 2 


9 1 

Z 4 


2* 



Bust No. 
Front Waist 
Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



20 21 22 23 24 



51 
5* 
1 

If 






n 



51 

C* 

1 

]f 

2 



51 
6i 



51 
6 

1* 

2 
2 



25 



2G 



27 



Waist 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 1 


Waist 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


2ti 


Waist 


21 


22 


25 


24 


2d 


26 


27 


Bust No. 


6* 


c* 


6* 


6 


6 


Bust No. 


61 


61 


61 


61 


6', 


6* 


i Bu't No. 


6? 


61 


6 f 


6\ 


63 


6f 


6f 


Front Waist 


5i 


6 


6 4 


6i 


6f 


Front Waist 


H 


6 


6* 


6i 


7 


7 


j Front Waist 


Dt 1J 
6| 


Et. 1. 
6 i 


6i 


7 


7* 


7% 


7? 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1* 


1* 


1* 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1* 


H 


n 


If 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1* 


1* 


1* 


Side Body 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


Side Body 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2^ 


! Side Body 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


Under Arm 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


Under Arm 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


2* 


' Under Arm 


2 




2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 



BUST 



28 



2y 



Waist 
Waist No. 
Bust No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



BUST 



20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 2d 



n 

7* 

2* 
1 

2 
2 



n 

7* 

11 
1 

2 

2 



7* 

7* 

1* 
1 

2 

2 



7* 

7* 
3 

4 
1 
2 
2 



1* 

2* 
2 



1*! 1* 
2*1 21 

2* 1 2* 



Waist 
Bust No. 
Waist No. 
Darts 

Center Back 
Side Body 
Under Arm 



20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


n. 


71 
' 2 


n 


71 


n 


7* 


71 
'2 


7* 


7* 


7* 


n 


n 


7f 


71 


7* 


n 


'1 


8 


21 


2* 


2 


1 


1 










1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1* 


1* 


1* 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


2* 


2* 


2* 


2* 


2* 


21 


2i 


2* 



29 

7* 



1* 
2* 
2* 



30 



31 



Waist 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


J8 


! Waist 


iy 20 


•AL 


22 23 


21 25 


-0 


27 


28 


Bust No. 


H 


7* 


7i 


71 


71 


71 


n 


7f 


7A 


Bust No. 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


Waist No. 


7* 


7* 


7f 


7f 


7f 


7f 


7f 


8* 


7f 


Waist No. 


6? 


6f 


7* 


n 


7f 


7f 


7f 


8* 


8* 


81 


Darts 


H 


2* 


2* 


If 


1, 


1* 


1 


1 




Darts 


2 f 


2* 


2* 


if 


If 


If 


1* 


u 


1* 


1 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


I 


1 


'* 


1* 


H 


1* 


Center Back- 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1* 


H 


1* 


li 


H 


Side Body 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 


2* 


24 


H 


side Body 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2 


2* 2* 


2* 


21 


n 


Under Arm 


n 


J 2 


»i 


2J 


n 


2-1 


n 


2^ 


2f 


Under Arm 


H 


n 


21 


2f 


21 


ail 21 


21 


21 


2f 



BUST 



31 



BUST 



32 



BUST 



33 



AY aisC 


18 


i9 120 


21 


22 


23 


24 


W. 


L9 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


VV. 


10 


20 


_1 


22 


23 


24 


25 


20 


27 


Bu-t No. 


71 


7f 7| 


n 


74 


74 


7| 


B. No. 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


8 


B No. 


81 


Si 


81 


8* 


8i 


81 


8? 


81 


81 


Darts 


2 


2 


1^ 

8 


u 


n 


1 


3 


D. 


11 


H 


1 ? 

8 


131 


n 


1 


3 


D. . 


2 


11 


11 


1* 


U 


U 


1 


ft 


1 


Center Back 


3 
4 


1 


1 


i 


i 


1 


1 1 

4 


C. B. 


3 

4 


2 

4 


1 


l 


H 


n 


11 

^4 


C. B. 


3 

4 


3 

4 


1 


1 


1 


U 


H 


l, 1 


n 


Side Body 


2 1 


2i 21 


2i 


21 


21 


21 


S B. 


2- 


2 


2 


n 


21 


2: 


n 


S.B. 


2 


2 


21 


21 


21 


** 


2-] 


2| 


21 


Under Arm 


91 


Oil 01 

*2 - J i' 


n 


21 


21 


21 


U. A. 


21 


24 


2i 


2}| 2i 


24 


21 


U. A. 


2 J 


24 


2 l 


a* 


H 


n 


2{ 


21 


21 



BUST 



31 



BUST 



35 



Waist 


10 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


Bust No 


Ff! 81 


Si 

X 8 


81 


81 


81 


81 


81 


81 


Darts 


2 


1« 


1? 


Is 


U 


1 


9 


3 
4 


Center Back 


3 
4 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


M 


11 


Side Body 


2 


2 


2 


21 


21 


2J 


24 


21 


21 


Under Arm 


21 21 


Z 4 


21 


V, 


2J 


24 


24 


21 



Waist 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


2G 


27 


28 f 


Bust No. 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


9 


81 


81 


81 


Darts 


2! 


21 


2 


11 


If 


1? 


i; 


U 


w 


* 


Center Back 


3 

4 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


U 


11 


11 


U 


Side Body 


2 


21 


21 


O] 

^4 


21 


21 


2* 


24 


21 


3 


Under Arm 


21 


21 


2| 


21 


2* 


24 


24 


3 


3 


3 



BUST 



36 



BUST 



37 



Waibt 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 ,24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


20 


30 


W. 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 ,27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


Bust No. 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91! 91 


9 


9 


9 


81 


81 


81 


B. No. 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 ! 91 


91 


9 


9 


9 


9 


Darts 


21 


n 


2 


2 


n\ n 


H 


11 


11 


1 


1 


ft 


D 


21 


21 


2* 


21 


n 


2 


11 


II 1 u 


11 


n 


1 


1 


ft 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


1* 


11 H 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


C. B. 


3 

4 


1 


1 


1 


1 


11 


H 


11' 11 

•2, 2 


U 


11 


11 


2 


2 


Side Body 


2 


21 


2 


21 


21 21 


24 


24 


'21 


21 


3 


31 


S. B. 


11 


2 


2 


21 


2.' 


21 


2 4 


3 ! 3 


.3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


Under Arm 


24 


24 


24 


24 


24! 2| 


21 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


U. A. 


24 


24 


21 


21 


3 


3 


3 


3 | 3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


H 



BUST 



38 



BUST 



39 



Waist 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 ! 


w. 


21 22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 ,30 


31 


32 


Bust No. 


10 


10 


10 


10 


10 


10 


91 


91 


94 


91 


9 


9 


9 


9 


B. No. 


101 101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


-01 


10 


10 


91 


91 


94 


Darts 


24 


24 


21 


n 


2 


n 


1! 


14 


1? 


u 


11 


1 


1 


1 


D. 


2i 


2 H - 


H 


2 


l'i 


11 


14 


l-S 


H 


1 


1 


7 

5 


Center Back 


1 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


14 


14 


14 


n 


11 


11 


2 


21 


C B. 


3 
4 


1 


1 


1 


H 


11 


li 


il 14 


11 


1 


15 


Ride Body 


11 


21 


21 


21 


24 


24 


21 


21 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


31 


S. B. 


21 


21 


21 


2* 


24 


24 


24 


2ii 2|j 3 


3 


'4 


U^der Arm 


24 


24 


24 


24 


24 


24 


3 


3 


31 


31 

°4 


31 


34 


31 


H 


U. A. 


24 


2' 


24 


21 


24 


21 


21 


3 | 3 | 3 


°4 °'i 



BUST 



40 



BUST 



41 



Waist 


22 


23 


24 125 


26 


27 28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


Waist 


22 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


Bust No. 


101 


101 


101101 


10 


10 


10 


91 


91 


91 


91 


91 


Bust. No. 


101 


101 


101 


101 


10 


10 


10 


91 


9-; 


91 


91 


91 


94 


Darts 


21 


21 


21' 2 


li 


i! 


H 


11 


14 


1 


1 


1 


Darts 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


2 


If 


1 3 

-■-4 


11 


11 


11 


1 


1 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11' 11 


11 


H 


11 


U- 


11 


H 


If 


2 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


u 


ij 


1? 


11 


1? 

J 4 


If 


Side Body 


2 


2 


21| 23 


24 


2| 


21 


21 


3 


3 


31 


34 


Side Body 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


3 


3 


31 


3;' 


31 


34 


6 9. 


4 


Under Arm 


23 

w 4 


n 


21' 2f 


3 3 


3 


31 


31 


34 


31 


31 


Under Arm 


3 


O 


31 


31 


34 


3 1 


31 


31 


3 4 


3? 


4 


4 


n 



BUST 



42 



BUST 



43 



Waibt 


_2 


23 


24 


25 


26 


27 


28 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 134 (Waist 


23 


24 


25 


20 


-7 


.8 


29 


o0 


31 


32 


66 


4 


Bust No. 


11 


11 


11 


11 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 


101 101 leust No. 


HI 


Hi 


HI 


HI 


11 


11 


11 


103 


103 


103 


L0-1 


101 


Darts 


21 2.) 


24 


21 


24 


2 


11 


; i! 


If 


14 


14 


li 1 | Darts 


21 


24 


2.' 


21 


21 


2 


If 


11 


14 


14 


M 


1 


Center Back 


1 


iH 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


I4 


If 


11 Renter Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


H 


11 


il 


n 


Side Body , 


2 


2 


21 


21 


24 


24 


24 


2f 


3 


31 


34 


34 


31 Side Body 


2 


2 


21 


21 


24 


03 

-"4 


n 


3 


3 


31 


31 


H 


Under Arm 


.24 


M 


2| 


:2i 


31 


3* 


.34 


:31 


34 


31 


31 


31 


31 Under Arm 


3 


3 


3 


3 


3i 


31 


31 


34 34 


34 


H 


H 



BUST 



41 



BUST 



45 



Waist 


24 


j5 


26 


27 


28 


-9 J 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 35 


Waist 


24 


25 


20 


27 


-8 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


o5. 


36 


Bust No. 


114 


114 


114 


111 


111 


Hi 


HI 


11 


11 


11 


101 103 


Bust No. 


!2 


12 


'2 


12 


HI 


HI 


HI 


114 


111 


114 


HI 


HI 


HI 


Darts 


21 


24 


24 


21 


2 


11 


11 


14 


14 


11 


11 


1 


Darts 


21 


2. 1 


24 


21 


21 


2 


If 


11 


14 


11 


11 


1 


1 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


li 


li 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


Center Back 


1 


1 


11 


11 


11 


11 


11 


14 


H 


14 


H 


14 


11 


Side Body 


21 

z 4 


21 


24 


24 


24 


21 


24' 


1)3 
Z 4 


3 


3 


31 


34 


Side Body; 


2 


2 


2 


2 1 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


31 


31 


H 


Under Arm 


3 


3 


3 


3 


* S. 


3i 


31 


34 


31 


34 


31 


31 


Under Arm 


2| 


2 3 

?4 


3 


3 


31 


31 


31 


34 


34 


34 


31 


3| 


H 



BUST 



46 



BUST 



47 



Wai.-.t 


■j . 


^0 


27 


id 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


■A 


6b 


06 


37 1 


Waist 


-6 li/ |_j ,_J 


60 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


J8 


Bu t No. 


12 


12 


12 


Ul 


HI 


Hf 


HI 


111 


111 


iH 


U* 


HI 


11 


Bust No. 


12 


1- 12 HI 


111 


111 


m 


in 


in 


HI 


HI 


11 


11 


Darts 


03 
^4 


21 


2! 


21 


24 


2 


2 


11 


li 


H 


u 


11 


11 


Darts 


23 


l> 3 


1 >I 


21 


2 


If 


11 


11 


11 


11 


1; 


11 


H 


Cen er Back 


1 


11 


n 


11 


n 


11 


1* 


14 


14 


14 


11 


11 


2 i 


C. B. 


1 


'11 


11 


11 


H 


11 


14 


1? 


14 


11 


11 


11 


2 


Si le Body 


2 


21 


21 


21 


24 


2| 


3 


3 


31 


34 


31 


31 


1 


S. B. 


21 


21 


21 


21 


21 


2 


n 


3 


31 


8 J 


31 


4 


4 


Un er A'm 


31 


31 


31 


34 


31 


34 


31 


3| 


n 


4 


4 


4 


41 

*4 


U. A. 


34 


34 


34 


31 


31 


n 


4 


4 


4 


41 


41 


41 


H 



To Match Stripes, Plaids, Figures 
and Diagonals. — Be careful in drafting 
your linings. Cut the back first. Now 
take the back and match it perfectly 
?n the goods, both faces up. Now take 
the lining and replace it on the back, 
being careful to have it exact, and do 
not move the goods. Now take the side 
body lining and place line A directly 
over line K in the back, being careful to 
have the waist lines even. Now pin the 
side body lining fast and remove the 
back and cut the side body, being very 
careful not to move it. The whole 
secret is to match the sewing lines. Fol- 
low this rule in matching the other 
parts. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING AND FIN- 
ISHING WAIST. 

To arrange the lining for drafting, fold it so that the drafting 
will be made on the wrong side of the lining. Place the lining 
on the table with the selvedge towards you. 

If the lining is to be put on full then it must be drafted y 2 
inch longer than the measure calls for. 

When your drafting is finished (if the lining is drafted 
double) pin it together well before tracing and cutting. 

Use a double tracing wheel, this will give an even seam and 
be a great assistance in your basting. 

Place the lining flat on the table when cutting. Never raise 
it with your hand. When cut put a small notch at the waist 
line. 

Trace the front, waist line, and darts with one wheel, all 
other sewing lines with both wheels, making a y?, inch seam, 
except on the shoulders and line £ in the front and line B in 
the under arm shape, which should be a one inch seam so as to 
give a little ease on those seams if desired. 

The neck and arm hole is cut on the marked lines as seams 
are allowed in the drafting. 

TO CUT THE GOODS. 

See that the goods are folded double (unless they are stripes 
or plaids. ) (See instructions for matching stripes, plaids and 
figures). 

Lay the goods smooth on the table, selvedge towards you. 
Place the lining on the goods. The bottom of the waist lining at 
the end of the goods (so as to cut saving), unless the nap or 
figure runs the other way, which of course must be the first 
consideration. It is best to place all of the forms in position 
first and see that the waist lines run even with the thread of 
the goods, then pin carefully before cutting. 

BASTING. 

Be very careful in basting. No matter how perfect your 
draftings are the waist can be ruined by improper basting. Do 
not draw the basting thread too tight, it will draw the goods 
out of position. Before removing the basting threads clip 
them every few inches, otherwise they are apt to pull or break 
the thread of the goods. 

BACK. 

Place the goods on the table face down. Now place the lin- 
ing on the goods right side up, then pin at the waist line and 
arrange the lining above the waist line with a little ease pinning 
the lining to the material. Baste the waist line first, then 
baste the other lines in the tracing up and down from the 
waist line with a stitch from % to J2 inch long. Do not put 
your hand under or raise up to baste. Follow the same instruc- 
tions in basting the side body and under arm shape. 

FRONT. 

Place the lining on the goods. See that the front edge of 
the lining and goods meet. Pin the lining on a little easy, 
getting it all in place, then baste across the waist line, then 
line A- Now pin and baste the darts, which should be done 
very carefully, beginning at the top or point and basting down, 
using a \ inch stitch. Now baste line E, starting from the 
waist line up. Baste shoulder next, then around the neck 
and arm hole with a \ inch stitch, being careful not to stretch the 
goods as it is cut partly on the bias. 

In taking up the darts, first pin carefully, beginning at the 
top of the dart and holding lines | and K a little full for about 3 
inches above the waist line, begin basting at the point of the 
dart, using a small firm stitch. 



This system is copyrighted and any- 
one infringing in any manner will be 
orosecuted. 



TO JOIN. ^ 

Take one side of the hack and one side body, placing the two 
waist lines together, and pin fast. Now pin in the traced or 
sewing lines, being careful not to stretch either piece, so that 
both traced lines will come out even. Now pin from the waist 
line down; begin basting at the waist line, removing the pins as 
you baste, making a small stitch, not over % inch. Now baste 
down from the waist line. 

Take the under arm shape and pin to the side body, being 
careful to have the waist lines meet; baste from waist line up 
and down. Now join the back, pinning at the waist line, and 
then in the traced lines up and down; begin basting at the 
waist line up, then down. 

TO STITCH. 

First see that the tension in the machine is not too tight, 
and a medium stitch (not too short), run the machine with an 
easy, steady motion (not too fast).. Use silk in stitching in 
every case. Begin the back seams starting at the neck, and 
stitch just inside of the basting, stretching the seam well for 
about 8 inches above the waist line, while stitching, in order 
that the seam will give to the bone when that is sprung in so 
as not to break the stitch in the seam. 

Stitch the next, or side body seam, with the side body up, 
beginning at dot 2, and stitching down, just outside of the 
basting; stretch the seam while stitching for about 6 inches 
above the waist line. Stitch the under arm shape on the side 
body, under arm shape up, beginning at dot 7, and stitching down 
just outside of the basting, stretching the seam while stitch- 
ing for about 6 inches above the waist line. To stitch the left 
side of the basque, begin at the bottom and stitch up, following 
the same instructions, this will place the side body and under 
arm shape up the same as the right side. 

Front. — Stitch the right side first, beginning at the waist line 
and stitching up and down. Slightly curve the seam out at 
the point of the dart beginning y 2 inch below the point of the 
dart, and finishing y 2 inch above, nearly parallel with the 
thread of the goods; this will obviate any fullness. 

PRESSING. 

First, remove the basting from the seams only. Never press 
a curved seam on a flat surface; if you have nothing better turn 
a rocking-chair bottom up, and use the rocker. See that the 
iron is well heated — not too hot ; start pressing at the bottom 
of the waist; take plenty of time and be careful that the iron 
does not come in contact with any other part of the waist. Do 
not stretch the seams. If heavy woolen material the seam can 
be slightly moistened. 

TO PREPARE FOR BONING. 

First take the back seam and notch at the waist line and then 
3 and 6 inches above ; then trim and round the seam off at the 
notches; now either overhand or bind the seam; if binding is 
used be careful and put it on slightly full so as to prevent any 
tightness on the seam. Notch the side body or curved seam 
at the waist line and 2 J, 5 and 8 inches above waist line; after 
notching finish off the seam the same as the back, the seam 
that joins the under arm shape to the side body notch at waist 
line and 2\ and 5 inches above and finish the same as the other 
seams. 

Front. — Cut open the dart to within % inch of the point and 
trim the wide part down to \ inch in width. Notch the first 
dart at the waist line and 2 inches above, and the second dart 
at waist line and 2 and 4 inches above waist line, and finish the 
same as the other seams. (The reason for notching the seams 
is to allow them to spring into the form and prevent binding.) 
Now fold the front hem in along line A, and baste % back to 
prepare the front for button holes or hooks and eyes, When 






VIENNA 
MILLINERY INSTITUTE 



The entire art of 

Frer\cF\ 
•s Ailliriery^ 

TAUGHT. 

From the making of Wire Frames to the 

Final Finishing of the Hat 

or Bonnet. 



You Learn all the Fine Points. 



This system is so thoroughly taught that 
scholars after finishing are fully com- 
petent to take charge of business for 
themselves, or take leading positions 
for others. 

VIENNA 
MILLINERY INSTITUTE 

114 Fifth Avenue, New York, 



buttons are used, it is well to place a narrow strip of lining or 
canvas between the fold to stay the button holes. Do not 
turn in the left side, as that is used as a fly, by putting on a 
tape just back of line A, to stay the buttons. When huoks and 
eyes are used it is well to turn back and fold the lin- 
ing along line A, and stitch }£ inch back from the edge. 
It is best to place a bone in each edge of the front in order to 
keep the waist from running up; to do this begin even with 
the point of the dart and stitch down \ inch further in (or the 
width of the bone). The bone should be placed in before 
putting on the hooks and eyes. The hooks should be placed 
back yk inch from edge, and the eyes just even with the edge. 
Face over the hooks and eyes with a narrow bias strip. 

BONING. 

Real whalebones are always the best and should be prepared 
by soaking in cold or tepid water. (Never in hot, as that 
makes them brittle.) When the single casing is used, it should 
be sewed on firmly and held full from one inch below the waist 
line to 4 or 5 inches above, the balance put in slightly full. 
Turn the end of the binding down forming a loop about one 
inch long and fasten firmly. 

Round the end of the bone off smoothly and force it in the 
casing from bottom to the top of the loop. Then fasten 
tight by sewing through the casing only y 2 inch below the 
top of bone. Now force the bone up so as to remove the 
fullness in the casing and fasten firmly 3 inches above the 
waist line. Then hoop the bone so as to take out the greater 
part of the fullness in the casing, and fasten firmly one inch 
below the waist line. When double casing is used, cut the 
casing 2 inches longer than the bone, place the bone in the 
casing, turn the upper end of the casing down 1% inches and 
fasten, the balance to be turned up at the bottom and fastened. 
Now sew the lower end of the bone firmly on seam one inch up 
from the bottom of the waist. Now spring the bone % inch and 
fasten firmly to the seam }& inch below end of the bone. Sew 
both sides to the seam down to within 3 or 4 inches of the waist 
line. This will force the hoop part within the proper position. 
Now sew from the bottom up on both sides. The length of the 
bone for the back should be % of the back measure. Use a bone 
2 inches shorter for the curved or side body seam. The bones 
for each side of the under arm shape seams should be one inch 
shorter than the under arm measure. The bones for the darts 
in front should come to within % inch of the point of the dart 
fasten % inch below the top of the bone. Covered and 
ever ready steels are put on in the same manner as the 
bones in the double casing. A nice finish for the bones is to 
feather stitch them, with twist or embroidery silk, using 
some pretty contrasting color. 

Now put the waist together, joining the front to the under 
arm shape, beginning at the waist line and pinning up. Then 
pin down from the waist line. Baste the same as the other 
seams from the waist line up and down. Now join the 
shoulder, stretch the front shoulder Yz inch so as to join evenly 
with the back and pin and baste with the front towards you. 
The back shoulder can be put on full, should you not be able 
to stretch the front sufficiently to meet it. Press well. Trim 
the seam down to Y /z inch and notch in the center and stitch 
and finish the same as other seams. 

Before stitching the under arm seam, take your tape line 
and measure the waist and bust lines and see if they correspond 
exactly with your measure. 

FACING. 

Pin the waist lines together and shape the bottom of the 
waist as desired. Prepare the canvas for the bottom by cut- 
ting a bias strip 1 y 2 inches deep,- stretching it as you baste to fit 
the shape at the bottom. Then turn ixp canvas and material 



This system is copyrighted, and any- 
one infringing in any manner will be 
prosecuted. 



t©get|»r Yi inch and eatch it down slightly to the lining, this 
Will make a smooth and firm edge for the bottom of the waist. 
Now cut the facing bias i ^ to 2 inches wide, pin firmly on, 
stretching so as to shape smoothly to the waist and turning in 
% inch at the bottom ready for felling. Turn the upper edge 
in and fell with a light stitch, being careful not to catch through 
the lining. 



COLLAR. 



Measure the neck of the dress and add ^ mcn to the measure 
and draft collar according to instructions. Use tailor canvas 
for foundation. If the canvas is used double, then stitch it cross 
and lengthwise in order to give it firmness. Pin the canvas 
on the material and cut y 2 inch larger all around. Cut the lin- 
ing the same size. Now baste the canvas on the material and 
fold over the edge and baste to the canvas. Catch down to 
the canvas with a long stich without catching through. 

Get the centre of the collar and pin to the center of the back. 
Then pin around to the front, then slip stitch on to the neck of 
the dress. Place the hooks on the right end of the collar and 
the eyes on the left. Now baste the lining on. Turn in the 
edge all around, beginning at the top and fell down. 

A waist is never finished without a belt, as that holds it firmly 
in position, if put in properly. Cut the belt a inches longer than 
the waist measuie and finish off ^2 inch less than the waist meas- 
ure by turning in each end and placing hook and eye so that 
the two ends will meet. Pin the centre of the belt to centre 
seam in the back having the lower edge of the belt }£ inch 
above the waist line. Then pin to the side body seams and 
cross stitch to the three seams. 



When Velvet, Plush or Fur is made up, the pile or nap should 
run up. 



In making light-weight Silks or Challies it is well to split a 
sheet of wadding and cut to fit the lining and place between 
the lining and goods — the smooth side next the lining -^.this 
will give a full mellow effect and make a smooth seam, and 
prevent any small or pin wrinkles. 



When the measure has been taken correctly and the basting, 
boning and stitching done properly, the waist should fit per- 
fectly, but it is well for beginners to try the waist on before 
stitching the under arm seam. (Stitch and bone all of the 
other seams. ) Unless absolutely necessary never make a change 
on line A, in front, as that is apt to spoil the shape of - the waist. 
If there has been a mistake made, you had better draft the 
waist -over than to make any large alterations. This will 
not occur if care has been taken. Should alterations be 
made on the shoulder, first pin the waist line fast so as not to 
make the basque short-waisted. 




TO LOCATE DOT 10 FROM 
DOT 8. 
foggC. WAIST MEASURE. 
1 8 to 20 - - - 2 inches 
21 " 22 - - - 2% 

23 " 24 - - - 2>£ 
25 " 26 - - - 2^ 
27 " 28 - - - 3 

2 9 " 3° - - - 3K 
31 " 32 - - - zYt. 
Above 32 inches same proportion. 



BIAS DART, 

Draft the same as for a plain waist. Place a new dot 

I 3 — l V* inches straight out from dot | 3, Place the y 2 

inch mark on new dot | 3 an d draft new line K to dot |5- 
Place dot 17 — 5 inches straight down from new dot |3- 

Place letter \\ on new dot 13 and draft line O to dot 17. 

Place dot 18 — 4 inches straight out from from dot 7. Place 
dot 19 — 5 inches straight down from dot 18. Place new dot 

7 — 2^4 inches straight in from dot 18, Place dot X ^ 

inch staaight up from the new dot 7, Place the corner 

of square on dot X the edge on dot 6 and measure up from dot 
X the length of under arm measure and place a new dot Q 
above line D • Place letter A on dot X and draft line E to 

new dot 6. Draft a line from dot X to dot i3. Place letter 
A on dot X an d draft line P to dot I9. Place dot 20 on line B 
6}4 inches from dot 3. Place dot 2i 1% inches straight down 
from dot 2O. Place letter A on dot 3 the edge of curve on 

dot 2l and draft line Q the proportionate length of shoulder, 

Without moving the curve place dot 22 — % inch less than 
the actual length of shoulder on line Q. Draft line R 

straight down from the end of line Q to line [) Place 



dot 23 on ^ ne R 2 inches up from line [)• 
24 one mcn straight in from dot 23- 
on dot 24 an d draft line S to new dot 6. 
on dot 24 an d extend line 5 to dot 22 
lady with high or full shoulders place a new 



above dot 2 an d a new dot 
according to dotted lines. 



Place dot 

Place letter [) 

Place letter K 

For a stout 

dot 2 H incn 



3-% inch above dot 3 an d draft 



WAIST WITH ONE DART. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist except the darts. 
Place dot \Q 2 l / 2 inches from dot 8 on line p. 
Place dot J J — 2 /i of the width of both darts from dot | Q. 
Place dot J 2 the remaing }i of both darts in from dot 7- 
Place letter \ on dot | 2 a nd draft new line £ to dot 9. 
Place dot | 3 »n line Q straight up from center of the dart. 
Place the % inch mark on dot | an d draft line J to dot 1 3 
Reverse the curve and draft line K. Draft line ft 

straight down from dot | 0- Measure 5 inches straight 

down from the center of the dart and place dot | 4- Draft 

line O from dot | | to dot | 4. Place dot | 6 — 2 inches 

straight out from dot | 2- Place dot | ~] — 5 inches straight 

down from dot | 6 Place letter J\ on dot 1 2 an d draft 

line P to dot | 7. 



THE TAlLOR-RflADE DRESS. 

There is just one way for a gentlewoman to dress when she 
goes on the street, and that is in a tailor-made suit, without 
ornamentation, but the perfection of fit and workmanship. 
There is something about the t.-ilor dressed woman that com- 
mands respect. For business, sh pping, or railroad travel, it 
has no equal. You have the satisfaction of 1 x>king like a lady 
a^ being treated as one, n> matter where you go. The 
narket is full of drafting Machines, Charts, and other con- 
nvances for cutting ladLs' dresses. Not one of them can 
>roperly cut a tailor fitting cosiume — that can be done only on 
-h3 material the same that a merchant tailor cuts foi a man, 
F.rst-class ladies' tailors do not use them. You cannot get tha 
ame results that you do from an actual tailor system. Inves- 
tigate before you make an investment. 




This Waist is very effective when the 
bust is futl with a small waist. It can be 
cut with good effect on a true bias of both 
lining; and material. 



BIAS FRONT. 

Draft line A 2 inches from edge of cloth. Draft Hrtfi 

B one inch from the ttrpper\end of cloth. Place dot 2 

on line A and from line B the distance given in the table under 
dot 2 according to the size of neck. Place a new dot 



Dot 2 


2% 


*h 


3 


3^ 


3^ 


sti 


4 


4^ 


Neck size 


10 


1 1 


12 


'3 


14 


is 


16 


17 


Dot 3 


2% 


2% 


3 


3# 


3* 


3 3 /s 


3^ b# 



I- 1 /? inch straight out from dot 2. Place dot 3 on line . 

B from line A the distance given in the table under dot 3 
according to size of neck. Place letter (J on new dot 2 

and draft line to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A an d from 

line B 6 inches more than ^ of the arm's eve measure. 
Place dot 5-4 inches straight Urj from dot 4 on line A« 
Draft line D straight out beginning 6 inches from dot 5. 
Place dot 6 on line D and from dot 5 the distance given in the 
table for front Bust No. Place dot 7 straight down trom 

dot 6 the length of under arm measure. Place a new 

dot 7 straight in from d <■' 7-^ of the width of both darts. 
Place letter A '% incl above new dot 7 and draft line E to dot 
6. Place dot 8 on line A the length of front measure 

below <!ot 2. Place letter (J- on dot 8 and draft line fj to 

new dot 7. r Place a dot on line A K the distance between 
dots 4 and 5. Place dot 9-% inch outside of dot last 

made. Place letter E on new dot 2 and edge of curve on 

dot 9 and draft line J* to meet line A DeWv dot 4. Place 

letter H on the end of line F edge or curve on dot 8 and con- 
tinue line p 2 or 3 inches . below dot 8. Place a dot }& 
inch each side of dot 9 and draft a dart to meet 2^ inches 
straight out from dot 9. Place dot 10 on line (} from dot 
8-^3 of the distance between dot 8 and new dot 7. Place 
dot 11 on line (J and from dot 10-^ of the distance of both darts. 
Place the corner of square on dot 4 and draft line H out 2 
inches beginning \ l / z inches from dot 4. Place dot 12 on 
line H straight up from dot 10 Place letter A on dot 
10 and draft line J to dot 12. Place letter A on dot 11 
and draft line K to dot 12. Place dot 13 3% inches 
straigh; down from the center of the dart. Draft line |_ from 
dot 10 t > 13. Draft line M straight down from dot 11. 
Place dot X 5 1. ehc.s strai'fe « down from dot 7. Place letter 
A on new dot- 7 and draft to d.t X. See d.a^ram. 
Place dot 14 on line B 6 % inches from dot 3. Place dot 
15-1 X inches straight down from dot r 4. Place letter 
A on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 15 and draft line M the 
proportionate length of shoulder. Without moving the curve 
place dot i6-j4 inch less than the actual length of shoulder on 
line M- Draft line U straight from the end of line JJ 
to line I). Place dot 17 on line JJ 1 y 2 inches straight 
1 1 from line D. Place dot 18 one inch straight in 
from dot 17. Place letter J) on dot 18 and draft line Q 
to dot 6. Place letter J£ on dot 18 and extend line to 
dot 16. i 



CENTER BACK. 

Dratt lines A and B H inch irom the edge and end of 

goods. Place dot 2 on line A +v, e distance givvn in the table 
for back neck under dot % 



Dot 2 y& 


% 


n 


# 


Ks' 


Neck Size | 7 

1 


8 


9 


10 


1 1 


12 


.'3 


14 


<5 


16 

1% 


17 

2 


l8 


Dot 3 yi 


n 


I 


iVs 


•X 


ifi 


r/ 2 


iV& 


«* 


2>6 




Place <!ot 3 on line B the distance given in the table for bac : 
neck under dot 3 Place point of curve on dot and 2 and 

draft line C to dot 3. Place dot;4 the length of back 

measure on line A and below dot 2 • Draft line D 

straight out from dot 4 about 1 5 inches. Place dot 5 

on line D 24 inch from dot 4. [Place dot 6 the distance 

from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center back 
Draft line £ beginning y inch below dot 5 and drafting to dot 
2 Place dot 7 — 5 inches straight down from dot 5 

Place dot 8 — }i inch straight in[from dot 7- Draft line F 

from the end of line £, to dot 8. Hi Place dot*9 on line B 

6^4 inches from dot Place dot 10 4>4 inches straight down 

from dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve 

on dot I an d draft line \\ the proportionate length of shoul- 
der. " See Table." Witout moving the curve place 
dot I I the actual lenght of shoulder measure from dot 3 
on line \\ Place dot | 2 — J M inches straight down 
from the end of line H Place the point of curve 
on dot I 2 and draft line J to dot | | . Place dot | 3 — y 2 
inch straight out from dot 6 on line*Q- Plact letter Y ° n 

1 2 and the edge of curve on dot | 3 and draft HneJK from dot 
j 2 to letter J " on the curve, "\**m Reverse the curve and place 

letter N on dot 6 and continue]the]|K to dot 6- Draft line 

G straight down from the end of line |(. 

SIDE BODY. 

Place the short arm of square on line A in the back, drafting 
the long arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out. 
Place dot 1 on line N~ 2 inches from dot 12. Place dot 

2 on line Q-2 inches from dot 6. Place dot 3-/^ inch 
straight out from dot 2- Place letter V on dot 1 the 
edge of curve on dot 2 and draft line A from dot 1 to letter J 
(on the "iurve. ) Place letter A on the end of line A and 
continue line A — j4 inch below dot 3- Place dot 4 the 
width of side body (as given in the table) from dot 3- Place 
dot 5 °n line N — 1% inches from dot | Place letter Q on 
dot 5 and draft line B to dot 4- Measure down line U 
from dot 5 2 /^ inches and place dot 6- Place the point of 
curve on dot | and draft line C to dot 6- Place dot "] one 
inch out from dot 4- Place dot 8 — 5 inches straight down 
from dot 7- Place letter \\ on dot 4 and draft line £ to 
dot 8- Place dot Q-}4 inch in from dot 2 
Place dot | 0"5 inches straight down^from dot 9- Draft line 
F from the end of lineJA to dot| | 0- 

UNDER ARM SHAPE. 

Place dot 2 on line D~3/^ inches from dot 4- Place 

dot 3 on line D the distance from dot 2 that the table gives 

for the width of under arm shape. ■ Place dot 4 straight 

up from dot 2 the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side 

body. Place d t 5~^C inch straight out from dot 4. 

Place dot 6 from dot 4 the distance between dots 2 and 3- 

Place tVi» ciwr of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and 

measure up f .*om dot 3 the length of under arm measure and 

place dot i Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line A to 

dot 5. Place letter S on dot 3 and draft line B to dot 7. 

Draft lire f) with the point of curve from dot 5 to dot 7 

Place dot 8 on line fl— 1% inches in from dot 2- Place 

dot 9 — 5 inches straight down from dot 8- Place letter 

G on dot 2 and draft line g to dot 9. Place dot | one inch 

straight out from dot 3 on line Q. Place dot | | -5 inches 

straight down from dot | 0- Place letter letter || on dot 3 

and draft linef to | | . 




TWO UNDER ARM SHAPES. 



For all waist measures up to 32 make the center 
of back one inch. For all waist measures over 32, 
make the center of back 1 % inches. 

For example take 42 bust and 32 waist. 

The table gives for the center of back, 1% inches. 

For the side body, 3^ inches. 

For under arm shape, 3^ inches. 
Make the following changes: 

Take from the back % inch. * 

" " " side body 1 " 

" " " front 1 " 

Total, a# 

Add the width of under 

arm shape, 3^ " 

Making, 6^ 

This gives two under arm shapes, 3^ inches each. 
* First under arm shape : 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, making the 
following- changes: 

Place dot .5 1 inch from dot 4. 

Place dot 7 straight up from S—V 2 inch more. 



than the length of the under arm measure, and place 
dot 8 in from dot 2 only one inch. 

Second under arm shape: 

Draft the same placing dot 4 straight up from 
dot 2-}^ inch more than the under arm measure, and 
place dot 7 straight up from dot 3 the actual 
length of under arm measure. Place dot 8 but one 
inch in from dot 2- 

When the style of goods will permit the 2 under 
arm shape can be cut on a true bias both lining and 
material with good effect. 

For waist measures 28 to 30 dot 10 should be 1% 
inches from dot 8, and for waist measures over 30. 
dot 1 should be from 2 to 2 % inches from dot g 
and dot 12 should be from 1 to 1% inches from dot H. 

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 
Bust - 



Waist 

Front 
Back 

Under Arm 
Shoulder 
Neck 
Arm's Eye - 



42 

32 
iS 

8 

6 

13 

13 




FOR VERY LARGE LADIES. 

BACK. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist making the center of the 
back one inch and placing dot 12 but i^ inches from the end 
of line ||. 

1ST SIDE BODY. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 5 -I X inches 
from dot 2 and placing letter p from dot 5 in drafting line B- 

2ND SIDE BODY. 

Draft the same, drafting a new line N straight out from - dot 
6- Place dot 5 - M inch from dot Q and place dot 6 only 

one inch from dot 5- Place letter P on dot 2 to draft 

line A an d place letter G on dot 5 to draft line B- 

1ST UNDER ARM SHAPE. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist, placing dot 7 - /^ inch 
more than the under arm measure 1 "> from dot 3 and place 
dot 8 only one inch from dot 2- 

2ND UNDER ARM SHAPE. 

Draft the same placing dot 4 - /^ inch more than the under 
arm measure rp from dot 2, and placing dot 7 the actual 
1 ength of under arm measure up from dot 3- 

See measure for practice. 



MEASURE 


FOR PRACTICE 


Bust - 50 




Under Arm 


Waist - 40 




Shoulder 


Front - 1 6 




Neck 


Back - 1 y 




Arm's Eye 


Take from the front, 


. 


1 inch. 


back, 


.. 


1 " 


Add width of side body, - 


. 


4 


under arm s 


hape 


A% " 



Total. 



io/ 2 



This will give the width of the side body, each 2 %. 
Width of under arm shape, each 2^. 



sy 2 

7 
J 5 




ETON WAIST, 

Draft line A -1 /^- mc h from edge of cloth. Draft line 

B i** inches from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line 

A and from line B the distance given in the table from dot 2- 
According to size of neck. (See table for front neck on the 
curve.) Place dot 3 on line B % inch more than the 

distance given in the table for dot 3. Place dot 4 on line 

A and from line B-6 inches more than y 2 of the arm's eye meas- 
ure. Place dot 5 ° n line A 4 inches above dot 4. 
Place corner of square on dot 5 an d draft line D straight out 
beginning 6 inches from dot 5- Place dot 6 on line \) 
and frcm dot 5 one inch more than the table gives for the Bust 
number. tlace dot 7 the length of under arm measure 
straight down from ^ocjj Place dot 8 on line A the length 
of Front measure b^iowdot 2- Place letter H on dot 8 
and draft line F to dot 7. Place a new dot 2-% inch 
inside of dot % Place a new dot 5~X inch outside of 
dot 5- Place a new dot 8~>^ °f the width of the first 
dart from dot 8 on line p. Place letter H on new dot 2 
and draft to new dot 5. Place letter G on new clot 5 and 
draft to dot 4- Place letter H on dot 4 and draft to new 
dot 8. Place letter H on new dot 8 Pr>A rVaft tr>rr^' *■ Tim 
A — 5 inches below dot 8 Place a new dot 7 inside of dot 7 
the width of the second dart and y 2 the width of the 
first dart. Place dot 9 — iy 2 inches straight down from 
dot 6. Draft line E from dot 6 to dot 9. Place letter A 
on new dot 7 and draft to dot 9. Place dot 20 on line B — 
6 finches from dot 3. Place dot 21 — J M inches straight 
down from dot 20- Place letter A on dot 3 the 
edge of curve on dot 21 an d draft line Q the proportionate 
length of shoulder. Without moving the curve place dot 22 
the actual length of shoulder measure on line Q. Dratt 
line R straight from the end of line Q to line f). Place 
dot 23 on line R 1^ inches from line Q. Place dot 24 
one inch straight in from dot 23- Place letter D on dot 
24 and draft line S to meet line D one inch inside of dot 6- 
Place letter K on dot 24 an d extend line S to dot 22- Ex- 
tend line A up from line B 3/^ inches and place dot 25- 
Place dot 26 straight from dot 25~5 inches. Place 
dot 27 on hne B - ^ inch from line A *• Place corner of 
square on dot 27 the edge resting on dot 26 an d draft line J 
about 20 inches. Place letter \) on new dot 2 a °d draft 
line C to dot 3 a nd extend to line J. Measure out line J 
from line C the length of back measure and place dot 28> 
Place the corner of square on dot 28 the edge resting on line 
J and draft line U out 9 inches. Place dot 29 on line U 
and from dot 28 one inch less than the combined width of cen- 
ter back side body and under arm shape. Place the 
corner of square on dot 22 the long arm parallel with line J 
and place dot 30 the distance given in the table according to 
arm's eye measure. Place dot Z\~/4 inch outside of dot 



Arm's eye measure 


10 11 


12 13 


14 15 


16 17 


Dot 30 


3 


3X 


3^ 


3H 



30- Place the corner of square on dot 31 the long arm 

parallel with line X and* place dot 32 the width of under arm 
shape from dot 31. Place the corner of squaae on dot 29 
the edge on dot 32 and measure down thedistance between dot 
6 and new^dot 7 (in front drafting), and place dot 33- 
Elace letter A on dot 29 and draft line V to dot 33. Place 
the X point of the curve on dot 33 and draft line W to dot 22. 

Pay close attention 10 die uugiam 1.1 making your draftings 
and you will have no trouble. Bone the lining before 

stitching it to the outside material. Darts can be used if 

desired but they must be made }4 inch less on each dart than 
the table calls for and omit making new dot J 




The Seamless "Waist L> not ad- 
v'sabli for a large waist measure, 
but for a medium or small waist or' 
for slender ladies it is very desirable. 

A seam c:m be had on the shoul- 
ders, if desired, by cutting on the 
dotted lines on the back shoulder. 



Draft 
center 
inches 

Place 
dot 8 



SEAMLESS WAIST. 



Use the fold of goods for center of back. Draft line 

B 10 inches from the top of cloth. Place dot 2 on fold of 

goods the distance given in the "neck" table under dot 2. 
Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck * table 
under dot 3. Draft ine C from dot 3 to dot 

2- Measure down the fold of goods 7 incaes from line B 

and place dot 4. Measure down the fold of goods _from 

line B the length of bacK measure and place dot 5. 
line D straight out from dot 5, the combined width of 
back and sidebody less one half inch. Measure 4 

down from line B and place dot 6 on fold of goods, 
dot 7 on line B 6^ inches from dot 3. Place 

four inches staight down from dot 7 . Place letter A on 

dot 3 and edge of curve on dot dot 8 and draft line E the pro- 
portionate length of shoulder — "see table'' — without moving 
the curve place dot 9 the actual length of shoulder measure. 
Place dot 10 5 inches-straight out from dot 4. Place 

point of square on dot 6, the edge resting on dot 10, and place 
dot 11 one-half inch more than }4 of the bust measure from 
dot 6 and draft line F from dot 10 to dot 1 1. Place point 

of square on dot 11, the short arm even with line F and draft 
line G up 2 inches more than }i of the arm's eye measure. 
Draft line H straight in from from the end of line G- Place 

dot 12 on line G and from line H the distance given in the table 
for "front neck" under dot 2- Pace dot 13 three-eights 

of an inch inside of dot 12. Place dot 14 on line H one- 

fourth inch more than is given in the -'neck table" under dot 
3. Place letter B on dot 13 and draftlinel to dot 

14 . Extend line G down from dot II and place dot 15 

the length of front measure from dot 12- _ Place tne 

point of square on the end of line D, the edge resting on dot 
15 and place dot 16 }4 inch less than the combined width of 
bust number and under-arnr "shape less the size of both darts 
from end of line B. Place letter F on the end of line D and 
draft line J to dot 16. ' Place letter R on dof II and 

draft line K to dot 16, Draft line L from dot 13 to dot 

11. Place dot 17 online H ond from dot 14 6^ inches. 

Place dot (8 1-% inches staight down from dot 17- Place 

the corner of square on dot 14 the edge resting on dot 18 and 
draft line M the proportionate length of shoulder measure' (see 
table). Without moving the square place dot 19 the 

the actual length of shoulder. Draft line S straight down 

from the end of line M to line F . Place dot 20 on line N 

1% inches above line F and place dot 21 — 1 inch inside of dot 
20. Place letter B on dot 21 and draft line to line F- 

Place letter T on dot 2 I and extend line to dot |9- Place 
dot 22 on line F Yz the distance between dot IO and the end of 
line N. Place letter on dot |[and draft line P to dot 

9 • Place edge of square even with line E, and place 

dot 23 from dot 3 the distance given in the front neck table 
for dot 3. Place the corner of square on dot 23 tne 

edge resting on line E and draft line Q out about 10 inches. 
Place dot 24 the distance from dot 23 that is given in the 
front "neck" table under dot 2- Place letter B on dot 24 

and drart line R to dot 3- Place letter G on dot 9 and 

draft line U to end of line Q. 

Follow the diagram in your drafting and you will have no 
rouble. 




•o> £9 




PRiixcess. 

Draft the front the same as for a plain wais downJ-O the 
darts. For all darts i % inches and over reduce the si*. . \~» 
darts yi and place a new dot 7 inside of dot 7, the distance of 
the amount taken from the darts.© To finish the darts below 
the waist line they are drafted so as to meet 5^ inches below 
the center of the dart. The top of the darts are finished the 
same as a plain waist. Place dot 16 two inc hes out side f new 
dot 7. Place dot 17 seven inches straight down from dot 1 6 
Place letter A on new dot 7 and draft line P to dot 1 7. Meas- 
ure down trom dot 8 in front one inch|more than the skirt 
measure and place dot 1 8. Measure straight down new clot 7 
two incius more than the length of the skirt measure and 
place dot 19. Draft line W from dot 18 to dot 19. Make the 
balance of the skirt the same length as the distance between 
dots 7 and 19. 

UNDER ARM SHAPE. 

Extend line F straight out from dot 7 about 5 inches. 
Place dot 2 — H i ncn from dot 1 g'and on line F. Place dot 
3 straight up from dot 2 the length" of under arm measure. 
Place letter |f on dot* 3 and draft'line^A to'dot 2. Place dot 
? 4 from dot 2 the width'of the undei'arm shape as given in the 
table. Place dot 5 straight up from dot 4 the distance be- 
tween dots 4 and 6Jin the side body. Placedot 6 — }imch inside 
of dot 5, Place letter \\ on dot 6 *nd draft line g to dot 

14. Place letter/^ on dot 6 and draft line C to dot 3. Place 
dot 7 — l % inches straight out from dot 4, Place dot 8 seven 
inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter^" on dot 4 an d 
draft line D to dot 8. Extend line D two inches more than the 
length of the skirt measure from dot 4. s Place letter A on dot 
2 and draft line E to dot I 7. Extend line W to the end of line 



D. 



PRINCESS BACK. 



Draft the same as for a plain waist down to the waist line. 
Place dot 8. straight out from dot 5 about 12 inches. Place 
dot^9 I ancl % inches straight down from dot 8, Draft line L 
from dot 5 to dot 9 , Measure straight down from dot Q-8 inches 
Place edge ot square (or skirt rule) on dots Q and \ 4 and draft 
'line M 2 niore inches than the skirt measure from dot Q To 
shape the skirt at the bottom measure down from the waist line 

every 5 or 6 inches and make a dot the same length as line Hi. 

See dotted lines. 

SIDE BODY. 

Draft the same as for a plain waist making the following 
changes. Place dot 3 only 2 inches from dot 6 and draft lines 
E and J to meet 8 inches below the waist line. Place dot 7 one 
and y 2 inches outside of dot 4 and on line Q and place dot 8- 
7 inches below lot 7. Place letter H on dot 7 and draft line D 
to dot 8. v^oncinue line D down the length of skirt. 
3 The under arm shape and the side body can be cut separately 
if desired by following the dotted lines E and J. Follow the 
diagram and you will have no trouble. 



m ""o 





Place dot | 2 on line F straight 
up from the center of the dart. 
Draft lines Q and H the same as 
other darts. Place letter C on dot2 
and draft line | to dot 3- Place dot 
20 online B 6>2 inches from dot 
3- Place dot 21 1% inches straight 
down from dot 20- Place letter A 
on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 
2| and draft line Q y 2 inch less 
than the proportionate length of 
shoulder. See table. Draft line R 
straight up from the end of line Q 
to line C- Place dot 23 on ^ nt R 
one inch below line C. Place dot 
24 one inch in from dot 23- 
Place letter Q on dot 24 an d draft 
line S to dot 6- Place letter K on 
dot 24 and extend line S to the end 
of line Q, 



BERLIN WAIST. 

Draft lines A and g one inch from the edge and of goods- 
Place dot 2 on line \ the distance given in the neck table 
for dot 2- 



Dot 2 


y 8 - 


' % 


n 


% 


n 


Neck Size 


7 

H 


8 


9 
i 


IO 


ii 


72 

I 3/8 


13 


14 
IS/3 


15 


16 

1 


17 
2 


18 


Dot 3 


2}i 



Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck table 
for dot 3. Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3 with the 

point of the curve. Place dot 4 on line A. the length of 

back measure below dot 2- Draft line Q straight out from 

dot 4- Place dot 5 one inch from dot 4 on line D- 

Place dot 8 on line D the width of center back side form 
and under arm shape from dot 5, Draft line E beginning 

4 inches below line B and drafting to dot 5. Place dot 

9 on line B— 6>4 inches from dot 3. Place dot | rQ— in- 

ches straight down from dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 

the edge of arm on dot | and draft line f the proportionate 
length of shoulder. See Table. Place dot | 2 straight down 

from line the end of line F the distance given in the table ac- 
cording to arms eye measure. 



Length of line G 



Arm' 1 * e^e Measure 7 



2^2^ 3 



1/ 



3-A 



10 11 12 



13 i 4 | 15 16 I 17 



Place dot | 3 straight out from dot | 2 the distance given in 
the table for the width of under arm shape. Place the cor- 

ner of square on dot 8 the edge on dot | 3 and measure up from 
dot 8 the length of under arm measure and place dot | A. 

Place the point of curve on dot | 4 and draft line Q to the 
end of line "F- Place letter Q on dot I A and draft line II 

to dot 8- . 

When drafting for Children, place line A. 1 Y-z inches from 
the edge of goods and omit dot 5, also draft the shoulder y, in- 
ch less than the proportionate shoulder measure. The waist 
can be cut without a seam in the back, by usino- the fold 
the goods for the center of the back and ommitting dot 5 The 
under arm shape can be cut seperate if desired. 

CHILDREN S FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for line A- Place line B one inch 

from the lower end of goods. Place dot 2 on the fold of 

goods and from line B the distance given in the neck table under 
dot 2 according to neck measure. Place dot 3 on line B 



Dot 2, 


2 

7 
2 


2X 

8 

2^ 


2/ 2 


2^ 


3 


3X 


Z% 


Neck Size. 


9 

2% 


10 

23/a 


1 1 

2}i 


12 


J 3 


Dot 3, 


2S/8 


2% 



the distance from line A that the table gives under dot 3 
'Place dot 4 on line A 5 inches more than % of the arrus eve 
measure below line B. Place dot 5 — 3 inches above dot 4 

Draft line C staright out beginning A. inches from dot 5. 
Place dot 6 at the front bust on line C. See table for distance. 
Place dot ~] the length of under arm measure 
straight down from dot 6- Place dot 8 the length of front 

measure down dot 2 and on the fold of goods. Place 

the edge of square on dot 8 and draft line [) to dot 7. 
Measure out line D from dot 8 the distance given in the table 
for "front waist" and place a new dot 7. Draft line £ 

from dot6 to newdot7 ?lace dot 9 online E -I % inches 

dQWn from dot 6. Flace the corner of square on dot 4 the 

edge on dot 9 and draft line p out 3 inches beginning ? inches 
from dot 4. 

Place dot 10 on line D 2 X inches from dot 8. Place 

dot. 11 from dot 10 the w'dth of dart as given in "the table." 




LADIES' SHIRT WAIST. 
Back. 

Draft the Berlin Back. Shape Yoke as desired from the 
upper part of the back. The lower part can be made plain or 
can be cut 4 inches wider than the lining and gathered into the 
yoke. 



Front. 

Draft the plain front with one dart cutting the outside 
material 5 inches out from line A (for fullness) and cut the neck 
one inch higher than dot 2- When without lining draft a 

pattern for a guide and cut material as above. 



SAILOR'S BLOUSE. 

FOR LADIES OR CHILDREN. 

Back. 

Draft the Berlin Back, add 1% inches to the waist line 
from dot 8 and draft line || to dot | 4- Cut 6 inches below 

waist line. 

Front. 

Draft the plain Front, add 4 inches to the waist line from 
dot 7 . omit darts and cut 6 inches below waist line. 

Diagram showing the changes necessary in drafting for a 
very large Bust and narrow back. 



After locating dot "J place a new dot 6 — \y z inches 
straight out from dot 6 and draft from ~] to new dot 6- 
Add 2 inches more to the Front Measure than the in- 
struction calls for. Draft the point of the darts 
one inch above line Q. See Diagram. Place a new dot 2 — 1/4 
above dot 2 and one mcn m - Place dot X 3 A i ncn out fr° m 
dot 4- Place letter R on dot X and draft to dot 2- Place 
the 5 inch mark on dot A and continue the curved line j£ inch 
in from dot 8 at waist line. See diagram. Take a 1 % inch 
dart in the lining at dot 5- See diagram. Raise the 
shoulder from \)i to 1^ inches above the regular drafting and 
and draft % inch longer than the actual shoulder measure and 
take a dart ^ inch in the shoulder to meet 4 ^ inches below 



the shoulder. See diagram, 
arms eye. See diagram. 



Take a one inch dart in the 



Back. 

Draft the same as a plain back making the following 
changes. Place dot | 0*3 inches down from dot <}• Use 

the actual length of shoulder for line H Place a new dot 

| 2>2 inch in from dot | 2- See diagram. 

The dotted lines show the ordinary drafting. 

Bust, 52 Waist. 32, Front 19, Back, 17^ Under Arm 9 
Shoulder 6. Neck 17. Arms Eye 17. ' 







TO PUT THE LINING ON FULL. 



First, see that the lining is cut y?, inch longer than the measure. 
Place the lining on the cloth. See that the cloth is perfectly 
smooth. Run a basting across the lining about 3 inches above 
the waist line in the front and from 4 to 4^ inches in the back, 
side-body and under-arm shape. Now push the lining up Yz inch 
and run a basting across the waist line. Now grade the fullness in 
the lining by running a basting ( % inch stitch) % inch inside of the 
tracing making the most fullness near the waist line. Now baste 
in the tracing % inch stitch. Make the lining slightly full for 
about 1 inch below the waist line. The bones must be put in 
easy up to the waist line, when they must be sewed perfectly 
tight and above the waist line they must be sprung in at least 
Yi inch in order to remove the fullness in the lining. The 
casing should be sewed tight to the seam of the dress and then 
cross stitched if desired. Begin at the waist line to do your 
basting (darts excepted, which must be started at the point of 
the dart) and baste up and down. The basting should not be 
longer than % inch stitches. Be careful to baste in small 
stitches around the arm's eye and neck to prevent stretching. 

In joining the waist it is best to pin the traced lines first and 
remove the pins as you baste. Measure your waist before 
stitching the under arm seam, and if large or small, stitch in- 
side or outside of the traced lines. 



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FRENCH SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and end of cloth 
Place dot 2 on line B ^ of hand measure from line J\ . 
Place dot 3 online A 2% inches above line B- Place 

the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 an d draft line 
C 2% inches less than the hand measure. Measure up 

line f\ from line B one inch more than the measure from the 
elbow to wrist and place dot 4- Place dot 5 — 3 inches straight 
out from dot 4- Place dot 6 straight ou tfrom dot 5 — !% 

inches less than the measure around the arm below the elbow. 
Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line Q to dot 3- Place 

dot 7 °n line J\ — 5 inches less than the measure from the 
shoulder to elbow from dot 4 • Place letter Y on dot ~] 

and draft line E to dot 5- Place dot 8 on line A — 5 inches 

above dot 7. Draft line f straight out from dot 8. Place 

dot 9 on line F — one inch more than y 2 the measure around arm 
below shoulder. Place dot | on linep->4 inch more than ^ of 
the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot Q. 
Flace dot | | on line f — }4 inch more than the measure around 
arm below shoulder. Place dot | 2 one inch straight down 
from dot | 0- Place dot | 3 — i% inchs straight down from dot 
I I . Place the point of the curve on line F one inch in from 
dot 9 an( l draft line Q to dot ~] . Place the X point of the curve 
on line F one inch out from dot 9 an d draf line \\ to dot | 2- 
Place letter F on dot | 2 a nd draft line | to dot | 3. Draft 

line J from dot | 3 to dot 6 extending 2% inches below dot 6- 
Place dot | 4 — A inch straight in from the end of ltne J. 
Place the point of curve on dot 6 an d draft line K to dot | 4. 
Place letter R on dot | 4 and continue line K to the end of line (j. 

Allow seams on Q E J K an ^ cut on C G H & I- 

^^ These. sleeves are"gathered at the elbow. Lay the sleeve 
smoth on the table, fold the top over about 3 inches from the 
elbow up and from the hand up to the elbow about 2 inches. 
Now bring the fullness together at the elbow taking up about 
2 inches in space and run in a gathering thread. See that dots 
5 come together on the under seam and baste up and down 
from dot 5 being careful not to stretch the goods. 



UNDER PART OF FRENCH SLEEVE. 

Draft line fa — }4 inch from the edge of cloth. Draft 

line B straight out from end of line A. Place dot 2 on 

line B H inch less than ^ the measure around the hand from 
line A.- Place dot 3 on line A l M inches above line B 

Place the the corner of the square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 
and draft line C Yz inch more than % the measure around the 
hand from dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A. one inch more 

than the measure from the elbow to wrist from line B • 
Place dot 5 — 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place dot 

6 — ^2 inch more than % the measure around arm below elbow 
straight out from dot 5- Place letter J on dot 5 an d draft line 
D to dot 3- .' Place dot 7 on line A — 5 inches less than the 
measure from shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place letter 

H on dot 5 a nd draft line £ to dot 7 • Place dot 8 on line 

A — 1% inches above dot J ■ Place dot 9 — Y A more than 

% the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot 8- 
Place letter K on dot "] and draft line F to dot 9 . Draft 

line G from dot 9 to dot 6- Place letter Q on dot 6 a nd 

dr aft line H to end of line Q. 

Allow for se a ms on lines D E G & H- Cut on Hnes C & F- 



e^ tA 





PLAIN SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and g Y inch from edge and end of goods. 

Place dot 2 on line B }4 of hand measure from line A. 

Place dot 3 on line A 2 inches from line B. Draft line 

C from dot 2 to dot 3- Measure up line /\ from line g one 

inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist and place dot 
4- Place dot 5 — 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place 

dot 6-2 inches more than Y of the measure around arm below 
below elbow straight out from dot 5- Place letter J on 

dot 5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter Q on the curve. 

Place dot "] on line /^-5 inches less than the measure from 
shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place letter p on dot 7 

and draft to the end of line Q. Place dot 8 on line A — 5 

inches from dot "J . Draft line £ straight out from dot 

3- Place dot 9 ° n line £ Y* the measure around the S^vv^ 

below the shoulder. Place dot | on line E one inch less 

than the measure around the arm below the shoulder from dot. 
8- Place dot | | -2^2 inches straight down from dot | Q. 

Place the point of the curve one inch in from dot 9 an( l 
draft line F to dot "J . Place the X point of the curve one 

inch out from dot 9 and draft line Q to dot | | . Draft line 

H from dot | | to dot 6- Place letter A on dot 6 and 

continue line \\ to dot 2- Allow for seams on lines Q and 

p. Cut on lines C and £. 

Under part of Sleeve. 

Draft lines /\ and B X A inch from the edge and end of 
of goods. Place dot 2 on li ne B V* the measure around the 
hand from line /\. Place dot 3 on line A 2 inches from line B 

Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 and 
draft line C one inch less than Y °£ hand measure from dot 3- 

Place dot 4 ° n li ne A one inch more than the measure 
'from elbow to wrist from line g Place dot 5 — 3 inches 

straight out from dot 4- Place dot 6 straight out from 

dot 5 ° ne inch less than Y the measure around the arm below 
the elbow. Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line ]} to dot 

3- Place dot 7 on line J\ 4Y inches less than the meas 

ure from the shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place dot 8 

one inch straight out from dot ~] . Place letter H on dot 5 

and draft to dot 8- Place dot 9 on line A 1% inches up 

from dot "]. Place dot | one half the measure around 

the arm below the shoulder straight ont from dot 9- Place 

letter K on dot 8 and draft line £ to dot | 0- Draft line 

F from dot | to dot 6- Place letter J on dot 6 and draft 

to the end of line (J- Allow for seams on lines Q and H 

Cut on lines (J> F a °d G 



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COAT SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A & B 2i inch from the edge and end of cloth . 

Place dot 2 on line B Y* °f the hand measure from line /\. 

Place dot 3 on line A 2 inches from line B- Draft line 

C from dot 3 to dot 2 • Place dot 4 on line A one inch more 
than the measure from elbow to wrist from line B. Place 

dot 5 — 3 inches straight out from dot 4- Place dot 6 

straight out from dot 5 — X Y* inches more than Y* °f the meas- 
ure around the arm below the elbow. Place letter J on dot 
5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter Q on the curve . Place 
dot 7 on line A~5 inches less than the measure from shoulder 
to elbow from dot 4. Place letter p on dot 7 a °d draft to 
the end of line j) . Place dot 8 on line A — 5 inches from dot 
7. Draft line £ straight out from dot 8- Place dot 9 on 
line £ y-z the measure around the arm below shoulder. Place 
dot I on line £ the measure around the arm below shoulder 
from dot 8- Place dot | | — 2^ inches straight down from 
dot I 0- Place the Q point of the curve one inch in from 
dot 9 and draft line F to dot 7. Place the X point of the 

curve one inch out from dot 9 an d draft line Q to dot | | , 
Draft line J| from dot | | to dot 6- Place letter A. on dot 
5 and draft to dot 2- 

Allow for seams on lines D & || cut on lines Q p & Q. 



Under Part of Coat Sleeve. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and end of 
goods. Place dot 2 ° n line B }4 the hand measure from 
line A- Place dot 3 ° n li ne A — 2 inches from line B. 

Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 an d draft 
line Q one inch less than y 2 of hand measure from dot 3- 

Place dot 4 ° n line A one inch more than the measure 
from elbow to wrist from line B- Place dot 5 — 3 inches 
straight out from from dot 4- Place dot 6 straight out from 
dot 5~~Y of the measure around the arm below the elbow. 
Place letter J on dot 5 and draft line Q from dot 3 to letter 
Q on the curve. Place dot 7 on line A — 5 inches less than 

themesure from shoulder to elbow from dot 4- Place letter 
p on on dnt 7 aQ d draft to the end of line Q. Place dot 8 
on line A — 2 inches up from dot 7- Place dot 9 straight 
out from dot 8 — Y °f the measure around the arm below the 
shoulder. Place letter K on dot 7 an d draft line £ to dot 9 • 

Draft line J? from dot 9 to dot 6 Place letter Q on dot 6 

and draft to the end of line (J- 

Allow for seams on lines D & "F" cut on lines C & E- 



Use the regular sleeve measure, making the following 
changes : Increase the the first and secoud measure around 
the arm 1 % inches and the measure around the hand one inch. 



ARM MEASURE. 

From point of Shoulder to poiut of Elbow, 
From point of Elbow to joint of Wrist, 
Around the Arm below the Shoulder, 
Around the Arm below the Elbow, 
Around the Hand. --..-- 



14. 
10, 

11^* 

9- 





Measure for Practice, 8 Years. 

Shoulder to Elbow 

Elbow to W rist .... 

AxoTJiird Ami below Shoulder . 

*• '■_■■" " Elbow 
A'fOund'Hand . 



7 l A 



UPPER PART OF CHILD'S SLEEVE. ,. 

Draft lines A and B % inch from the edge and lower end of 
cloth.- Place dot 2 on li ne B and from line A Yz inch 

more than Y of the measure around the hand. Place 

dot 3 on line A and from line B the distance given in the table 
under dot 3 according to length of sleeve. 



Length of Sleeve 


i3- I 4 


IS-16 


17-18 


19—20 


Dot 3 


\% 


*H 


1% 


2 


Dot 5 


1% 


1% 


2 


2 T A 


Dot 7 


2 l / 2 


3 


1% 


4 


Dot 12 


1% 


i# 


i3 A 


i# 



Drait line (J tiom uut 2. t- u Uol: 3- Measure up line A 

from line g 1 inch more than the measure from elbow to waist 
and place dot 4. Place dot 5 straight out from dot 4 the 

distance given in the table under dot 5, according to the length 
of sleeve. Place dot 6 straight out from dot 5-2 inches 

more than Y of the measure around the arm below the el- 
bow. Place letter G on dot 5 and draft line [) to dot 
3. Place dot 7 on iine A an d above dot 4 the 
measure from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in the 
table under dot 7- Place dot 8~ r inch straight out 
from dot 7- Place letter G on dot 8 and draft line p 
to dot 5- Place dot 9 on line A an d from dot "J-x inch 
more than the table gives for dot ~( . Draft line p straight 
out from dot 9- Place dot \Q straight out from dot 9 
i)4 inches more than *4 of the measure around the arm below 
the shoulder. Place dot \] on line p and from dot \0~Y of the 
measure around the arm below the shoulder. Place dot 
],2 straight down from dot 11 the distance given in the table for 
dot 12. Place the O point of the curve on line F 1 inch 
in from dot 10 and draft line G to dot 8. Place letter T 
on dot 10 and draft line H to dot 12. Draft line I frcm 
dot 12 to dot 6. Place letter G on dot 6 and draft line 
J to dot 2- Allow for seams on lines D, E, I and S. 
Cut on lines C, Q and H. 

UNDER PART OF CHILD'S SLEEVE. 

Draft line A }4-inch from the edge of cloth. Draft 

line B straight out from the lower end of line A. Place 

dot 1 on line B and from line A Y inch more than Y of meas- 
ure around the hand. Place dot 2 on line A and from 
line B the distance given in the table for dot 2 according to the 



Length of Sleeve 


13 r 4 


15 16 


17 18 


1920 


Dot 2 


1 


1)4 


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i# 


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H 


1 


"# 


" 6 


2Y-2 


3 


3^ 


4 



length of sleeve. 

the edge on dot 1 and 

the hand measure. 



Place the corner of square on dot 2 

draft line C out % inch less than % of 

Place dot 3 on line A and from line 



B 24 inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist. 
Place dot 4 straight out from dot 3 the distance given in the 
table under dot 4, according to length of sleeve. Place 

dot 5 straight out from dot 4-}4 of the measure around the 
arm below the elbow. Place letter M on dot 4 and draft 

line D to dot 2. Place dot Q on line A and above dot 3 

the measure from shoulder to elbow less the distance given in 
the table under dot 6 according to length of sleeve. Place 

letter M on dot 6 and draft line E to dot 4. Place dot 7 

on line A and from dot 3 the distance between dots 6 and 12 in 
the upper part of sleeve. Place dot 8 straight out from 

dot 7-^ of the measure around the arm below the shoulder. 
Place letter K on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 8- Dra ft 

line G from dot 8 to dot 5. Place letter M on dot 5 and 

draft line H to the end of line Q- Allow seams on line 

D, E, G-, and H- Cut on lines C and F. 





LADIES' SHIRT WAIST SLEEVE. 

Draft lines A and B 1 inch from the end and edge of goods. 

Place dot 2 « n line B the measure around the hand Place 
dot 3 line A 2 inches from line B Place the corner of 

square on dot 3 the edge on dot 2 and draft line C out 3 
inches more than the hand measure. Place dot 4 on line 

A one inch more than the measure from elbow to wrist from 
line B- Place dot 5 — 2 inches straight out from dot 4 

Place dot 7 on line A 5 inches less than the measure from 
shoulder to elbow . Place letter U on dot 5 and draft 

line D to dot 3. Place letter P on dot 7 and draft to 

dot 5. Draft line E straight out from dot 7 twice 

the measure around the arm below the shoulder. Place 

dot 8 -3 inches in from the end of line E. Place dot 9 on 

line E Yz the distance between dots 7 and 8. Place dot 

10 one inch straight down from dot 9. Hold the end 

of tape line on dot 10 and draft curve line F from dot 8 to dot 7 

Draft line G straight down from the end of line E. 

Place dot H on line G 6 inches below line E- Place 

letter T on dot II and draft to dot 8. Place dot 12 on 

on line G y 2 the distance between the shoulder and elbow from 
dot II Place dot 13 7 y inches straight in from dot |2. 

Place letter G on dot |3 and daaft line H to dot || Place 

letter R on dot 13 and extend line H. to the end of line C. 

Allow for seams on lines B and M— Cut on lines C and F. ' 



SHIRT SLEEVE. 



Use the fold of goods for line A. 



Draft line B % inch 



from lower end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line B and from 

the fold of the goods 1 inch more than % of the arm's eye 
measure. Measure 3 inches straight up from dot 2 and 

place dot 3. Place letter P on dot 3 and draft line C 

to the lower end of line B. Place dot 4 on the fold of 

goods the length of sleeve measure above line B. Draft 

line D straight out from dot 4-i inch more than y 2 of 
the measure around the hand. Draft line E from dot 

3 to the end of line D. Lines D and C are cutting 

line? Allow y 2 inch seam on line E. 



Sleeve Instructions. 

Notch the lining at the elbow (at dots 5 an ^ 6) baste the 
back seam, begining at the top and baste to the elbow; then 
begin at the bottom and baste smooth up to within 1% inches 
of the elbow, run a gathering thread in the fullness and finish 
basting seam and press open. Pin material on the lining smooth 
from wrist to elbow, the seam of the lining next to the goods. 
Pin the remainder in the traced lines, having the edge of goods 
and lining even. Now baste in the traced lines. To join the 
seams see that the notches at dot 5 meet. P in in the traced 
lines, up and down from the notches, then baste. To stitch, 
have the under arm part next to the feed seaming one up and 
the other down. Notch the seam 3 inches below dot 5- and 3 
and 6 inches above ; round off the notch and bind or overhand ; 
remove the bastings and press. Face the bottom of sleeve the 
same as the waist. Gather the outside material, beginning 2 
inches from the front seam and gather around to within one 
inch of dot | 4> placing the most fullness on and in front of the 
shoulder; place the sleeve in, pining the seam 1% to 2 inches 
in front of the under arm seam in the waist. See that it i on 
a direct bias from the point of the last dart. Pin the under arm 
part smoth, place the most fullness in front of the point of the 
shoulder, down to within 3 inches of the front seam, Sew with 
the arm holes towards yov, so as to get an even seam. It is 
always best to sew the seam in by hand, with a firm back stitch 
using twist or strong silk; trim off the seam and over-hand 
hand. Shields should be tacked lightly though the tape that 
binds them in placing in the arm hole (never place the needle 
through the rubber). 




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% 


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7 


8 


9 


IO 


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12 


M 


14 


i.S 


16 


17 


18 


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2^ 


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23/6 


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CLOAK. 

Center Back. 

Draft lines A and B one inch from the edge and end of goods. Place 
dot 2 on line A the distance given in the neck table under dot 2. 

Size of 
Neck 

Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck table under dot 3. 
Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 4 on 
line A the length of back measure below dot 2. Draft line D straight out 
from dot 4. Place dot 5 one inch from dot 4 on line D. Place dot 6 
the distance from dot 5 that the table gives for the width of center back. 
Draft line E beginning 4 four inches below line B and drafting one inch 
below dot 5. Place dot 7-2 inches straight in from the end of line E. 
Draft line F from the end of line E to dot 7. Draft line Q straight down 
from dot 7. Place dot 9 on line B 6%. inches from dot 3. Place dot 
10-3^ inches straight down from dot 9. Place letter A on dot 3 edge of 
curve on dot 10 and draft line H y z inch less than the proportionate 
shoulder measure without moving the curve place dot 1 1 on line H Yz inch 
less than the actual shoulder measure. Place dot 12-2}^ inches straight 
down from the end of line H. Place dot 13-% inch in from dot 12. 
Place point of curve on dot 1 1 and draft line J to dot 13. Place letter P 
on dot 13 and draft line K extending one inch below dot 6. 



Side Body. 



Place the long edge of square even with line A in the back drafting the 
short arm on dot 12 and draft line N straight out from dot 12. Place dot 

2 on line N 3 inches from dot 12. Place dot 3 on line D 3 inches from 
dot 6. Place letter P on dot 2 and draft line A extending one inch below 
dot 3. Place dot 4 on line D and from dot 3 the distance given in the 
table for the width of side body. Place dot 5 on line N one inch from 
dot 2. Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line B to dot 5. Place dot 6 
on line B 13/ inches from dot 5. Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft 
line C to dot 6. Place dot 7 on line D y z inch out from dot 4. Place 
dot 8-5 inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter A on dot 4 and 
draft line E to dot 8. Draft line L from the end of line A to the end of 
line K in back. 

Under Arm Shape. 

Place dot 2 on line D 3 inches from dot 4 (in side body). Place dot 3 
on line D l / z inch more than the table gives for the width of under-arm from 
dot 2. Place the corner of square on dot 2 the short arm even with line 
D and measure straight up the distance between dots 4 and 6 in the side 
body and place dot 4. Place dot 5-3/ inch straight out from dot 4. 
Place dot 6 straight out from dot 4 the distance between dots 2 and 3. 
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and measure up from 
dot 3 one inch less than the under arm measure and place dot 7. Place 
letter Q on dot 5 and draft line A to dot 2. Place letter W on dot 7 and 
draft line B to dot 3. Place point of curve on dot 5 and draft line C to 
dot 7. Place dot 8 on line Dr.?/ inches in from dot 2. Place dot 
9-5 inches straight down from dot 8. Place letter A on dot 2 and draft 
line E to dot 9. Place dot 10 on line D \% inches out from dot 3. 

Place dot 1 1 -5 inches straight down from dot 10. Place letter A on dot 

3 and draft line F to dot II. 



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I5T^ 




] 


7 


r + 


23. 


k</ 




+ 




V 




j. 


6 . 


y^ 










+ 


Y 




-t- 

9- + 

+ 

+ 
H- 


£— k__ 




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/& / 


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Ai 




5" 

+ 

+ 
+ 


/? / 






* . 




CLOA^-No. 1. 

Draft line /V — 3 inches from edge of cloth. Draft line B 
lj4 inches from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A the 

distance given in the neck table for dot 2 • 

NECK TABLE. 



D 


2*£|2#|2# 


2/ 


3 


3K|3% 


33/| 4 


4/|4/|4 3 /4 


Neck Size 


7 
2ji 


8 
3 


9 

3/s 


IO 

3X 


1 1 

3/8 


12 

3/ 


J 3 

3/8 


14 
3/ 


i5 

3/8 


16 

4 


17 

4;^ 


18 


Dot 3 


4X 



Place dot 3 on nne -B the distance given in the neck table 
for dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A — 6 inehes more than half 

of the arms eye measure below line B. Place dot 5 — 3 inches 
above dot 4 on line A- Place the corner of square on dot 
5 and draft line D straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- 
Place dot 6 on li ne D at the front bust number from dot 5 see 
table for distance. Place dot 7 straight down from dot 6 1 inch 
less than the under arm measure. Place dot 8 on line -A. the 

length of front measure below dot 2- Place letter H on dot 

8 and draft line F to dot J. Place dot Q straight in from 

dot 7 te width of the first dart. Place letter A on dot 9 

and draft line £ to dot 6- Place dot | 6 — 2 inches straight 

out from dot 9- Place dot |7 — 5 inches straight down 

from dot | Q. Place letter A on dot 9 and draft -line E 

to dot I 7- Place dot 25 — % inch out from dot 2- 

Place dot 26 X inch in from dot 2- 

Draft lines J & (J to meet line A — 5 inches below dot 2. 

Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line Q to dot3 
Place dot 20 on ^ ne -B 6^4 inches from dot 3- Place dot 

2 I — 1/ inches straight down from dot 20- Place letter A 

on dot 3 the edge of curve on dot 2 I and draft line Q y 2 inch 
less than the proportionate shoulder measure. See table. 
Without moving the curve place dot 22 — / inch less than the 
actual shoulder measure on line Q. Draft line ft straight up 

from the end of line Q to line D- Place dot 23 on nne R 

2 inches above line D- Place dot 24 — 2 inches straight in 

from dot 23- Place letter Q on dot 24 an( l draft line $ to 

dot 6- Place letter K on dot 24 anc ^ continue line $to dot 22 

Draft line }f/ from dot 26 to the edge of goods. 



CLOAK-No. 2. 

Draft line A. — 4^ inches from edge of cloth. Draft lina 
B one inch from the end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A. 
the distance given in the neck table for dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


2/ 
7 

2]/8 


2^ 

8 
3 


2/ 

9 
3/8 


2% 
10 

3/ 


3 
11 

3/8 


3/ 
12 

3/ 


3/ 
13 

3/ 


3/ 

14 

3/ 


4 
15 

3/8 


4/ 
16 

4 


4/ 

f 7 

4/8 


4/ 


Neck Size 


18 


Dot 3 


4^ 



Place dot 3 ° n line line B the distance given in the nec^ 
table for dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A — 6 inches more than 
Yz of the arms eye measure below line B, Place dot 5 on 
line A — 3 inches above dot 4- Place the corner of square on 
on dot 5 and draft line Q straight out beginning 7 inches from 
dot 5 Place dot 6 at the bust number on line D See 

table for distance . Place dot ~] one inch less than the under 

arm measure straight down from dot 6- Place dot 8 on line 
/\ the length of front measure below dot 2- Place letter || 

on dot 8 and draft line p to dot 7. Place dot 9 / the 

width of the first dart in from dot 7 on line p. Place letter 

A on dot 9 and draft line £ to dot Q. Measure down line E 

from dot 61/ inches and place dot | ' Place the corner of 
square on clot 4 the edge on dot | Q and draft line Q out 3 in- 
ches beginning 3 inches from dot 4- Place dot | | on line Q 
half way between dots 4 and j | Q . Place the short arm o 




Place letter D on dot 24 and draft line 
3 to the end of line |j. Flace letter K on dot 

24 and extend line S t° dot 22- Place dot 

25 Y? inch from dot 2. Place point of curve 
on dot 25 — use the round edge — and draft 
line Q to dot 3 • Draft line J to meet line 
A 6 inches below dot 2- Place dot 27 y inch 
straight out from dot 8- Place letter S on 
line A — i% inches below dot 5 and draft line 
U to dot 27. Place letter $ on dot 27 and 
extend line \} to meet line A 8 inches below 
dot 8- Place dot 28 — 1% inches straight in 



from dot 2. 



Place dot 29 — 1 % inches 



straight in from dot 5- Place dot 30 

inches straight in from dot 8- Place dot 3 I 
ify inches straight in from the junction of 
lines A & U- Place letter S on dot 28 and 
draft line Y to dot 29. Place letter $ on dot 
29 and continue line V to dot 30- Place 

letter 2 on dot 30 and draft to dot 3 | . 
Place dot 32 — 4/4 inches in from dot 28. 
Draft line W from dot 28 to dot 32- Place 
dot 33 — 4/^ inches straight in from dot 29. 
Place dot 34 — 2 V^ inches straight in from 
dot 30- Place dot 35 — 3 inches straight in 
from dot 3 I • Draft line X from dot 32 to 
dot 33. Place letter \ on dot 34 and draft 
to dot 33- Place letter $ on dot 34 and 
draft to dot 35. Draft line Y from dot 3 J 
to dot 35. 



square even with line (j the corner on dot | | and place dot |2 
on line F at the edge of square. Place dots | 3 and | 4 each 
side of dot | 2 % of the first dart. Place the 2 inch mark 
on dot I 4 and draft line | to dot | | . Reverse the curye 

and draft line || . Place the short arm of square even with 
line Q the edge on dot | 3 and draft line J. Draft line K in 
like manner.- Place dot | 6 — 2 inches straight out from dot 

9 place dot | 7 — 5 inches straight down from dot |g. 

Place etter A r on dot 9 and draft line |V| to dot \~] ■ Place 

dot 20 °n line B 6y 2 inches from dot 3. Place dot 2 I x /4 

inches straight down from dot 20- Place letter. A on dot 3 
edge of curve on dot 2 I and draft line Q y 2 inch less than the 
proportionate shoulder measure. Without moving the curve 
place dot 22 on line Q y 2 inch less than the actual length of 
shoulder. ■ Draft line R straight down from the end of line Q 
to line [)• Place dot 23 online R 2 inches above line £). 

Place dot 24 — 2 inches straight in from dot 23- Place let- 
ter D on dot 24 and draft line $ to dot 6- Place letter K on 
dot 24 and extend line S to dot 22- Place dot 25 — % i ncn 
inch out from dot 2 •' Place dot 26 — % inch in from dot 2- 
Draft lines f and (j to meet line A — 4 inches down from dot 2- 
Place the point of curve on dot 25 an d draft line C to dot 3- 
(use round point) Place dot 27 on line B — 2 inches in from 
line J\. Draft line V from dot 27 to dot 26- Place 

letter p on dot 27 and draft line }ff to meet the edge of goods 7 
inches below line B. 

CLOAKS-No. 3. 

Draft line /\ 6^ inches from the edge of goods. Draft 

line B *y inches from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line 
A the distance given in the Neek Table for dot 2- 

NECK TABLE. 



Dot 2 


2% 


2^8 


2% 


2^ 


3 


3% 


s% 


3% 


4 
IS 

3Vs 


4% 
16 

4 


4% 
17 

4/8 


4& 


Neck Size 


7. 


8 

3 


9 

sy 


10 

3% 


11 

3 3 A 


12 

3/2 


13 

3 S /8 


i4 

3H 


18 


Dot 3 


2^8 


4^8 



Place dot 3 ° n line B the distance given in the Neck Table 
for dot 3- Place dot 4 on line A 6 inches more than y of arm's 
eye measure below line B. Place dot 5 on line A 3 inches above 
dot 4 Place the corner of square on dot 5 and draft line D 

straight out beginning 7 inches from dot 5- Place dot 6 at 

the Bust No. on line [)— See table for distance . Place dot 7 

one inch less than the length of under arm straight down from 
dot 6 Place dot 8 ° n line A. the length of front measure 

below dot 2- Place letter \\ on dot 8 and draft line p to dot "]. 
Place dot 9 straight in from dot "J — % the width of both darts, 
Place dot j on line p half way between dots ~] and 8» Place 
dot I I on line p y of the remainder of darts in from dot | • 
Place dot j 2 the other half of the remainder of darts out from 
dot I 0- Place dot | 3 % inch straight up from dot 9- 

Place letter A on dot | 3 and draft line £ extending y 2 inch 
above dot 6- Place dot j 4 ° n line E one inch below dot 

g. Place the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on dot 

I 4 and draft line (j out 3 inches beginning 3 inches from dot 4 
Place dot | 5 ° n line Q straight up from dot" | 0- Place 

the y inch mark on dot | | and draft line \\ to dot | 5- 
Reverse the curve and draft line | from dot | 2 to dot | 5- 
Draft lines J & K from dots J | & | 2 so as to meet 15 inches 
below dot I 0- Draft line L from dot | 2 to dot | 3. Place dot 
I g — 2 inches straight out from dot | 3- Place dot | ~] — 

5 inches straight down from dot | g. Place letter A on dot j 3 
and draft line M to dot | ~J . Place dot 20 on line B 6y inches 
from dot 3 • Place dot 2 I — J >^ inches down from dot 20 

Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve on dot 21 and draft line 
Q y inch less than the proportionate shoulder measura. 
Without moving the curve place dot 22 y inch less than actual 
shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the end 
of line Q to line Q. ■ Place dot 23 on line R 2 inches above 

line I). Place dot 24 2 inches straight in from dot 23. 




9, 




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3 






S^ 


/ "c 


/<2 


37 








U NDERAR JVI. 

Place the long arm of square even with 
line A- The short arm on dot |2 and 
draft line N straight out from dot |2- 

Place dot 2 on line H 3 inches from 
dot |2. Place dot 3 on line D 3 inches 
faom dot 6- Place letter Q_ on dot 2 

and draft line A extending / inch below 
dot 3- Draft from end of line A to end 
of line K in back. Place dot 4 on line DY 
inch more than one-half the combined 
width of center back side form and under 
arm shape form dot 3. Place dot 5 

on line N the width of the under arm 
shape as given in the table. Place 

the corner of square on dot 4 the edge on 
dot 5 and measure up from dot 4 one 
inch less than the length of under arm 
measure and place dot g. 

Place letter M on dot 6 and draft 
line B to dot 4, Place the X point of the 
curve on dot 2 and draft line O to dot 6 
Place dot "J one-half inch out from dot 4. 
Place dot 8 five inches straight down 
from dot 7. Place letter R on dot 

4 and draft line E to dot 8- 



GIRLS CLOAKS.-Front. 

Draft line A 2 % inches from the edge of cloth. 

Draft line B 1 inch from the end of cloth, 

Place dot 2 ° n line A the distance given in the neck table for 

dot 2 NECK TABLE. 



- 



Dot 2 



Neck Size 



Dot 3 



7 

2 5/ 8 


2% 

8 

2 3/ 


2~y 2 
9 

2j4s 


2% 
IO 

3 


3 
11 

3 l A 


3% 
12 

3% 


3% 

J 3 

3/8 



Place dot 3 ° n nne B the distance given in the necK table for 
for dot 3- Place the point of curve on dot 2 and drafr 

line Q to dot 3- Place dot 5 ° n line A 3 inches more 

than / of the arms eye measure below line B. Draft line 

Q straight out beginning 4 inches from dot 5- Place dot 

5 on line Q one inch more than the table gives for the Bust 
number. Place dot "J one inch less than the length of under arm 
measure straight down from dot Q. Place dot 8 the length of 
front measure below dot 2 on line A. Draf line F from dot 8 
dot 7- Place dot 9 on line F one inch more than the table 

gives for front waist number from dot 8- Place the }4 inch 

mark on doi 9 and draft line £ to dot 6- Place dot | 6 

one inch straight out from dot 9- Place dot |7 five inches 

straight down from dot |6- Place the / inch mark on dot 

9 and draft line M to dot |7- Place dot 20 on line B 

6/ inches from dot 3- Place dot 21 1/ inches straight 

down from dot 20- Place letter A on dot 3 edge of curve 

on dot 2 I and draft line Q % inch less than the proportionate 
shoulder measure. Draft line R straight down from the 

end of line Q to line D. Place dot 23 on nne R 1 Y inches 

above line D Place dot 24 ' i ncn straight in form dot 

23' Place letter C on dot 24 an d draft line $ to meet line D 
one-half inch from dot 6 Place letter K on dot 24 an d 

extend line $ to the end of line Q. Place dot 25 on ^ ne 

B one-inch in from line A- 

Place the point of the curve on line C two inches below dot 3 
and draft line J extending one-half inch from dot 25- 
Place the point of curve on the end of line J and draft to meet 
the edge of goods 3/ inches down. 

BACK. 

Draft lines A and B one-inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Place dot 2 on line A the distance given in the neck table for 

dot 2- NECK TABLE. 



D 



Neck Size 



Dot 3 



Y 


Y 


% 


n 


3 /8 


% 


% 


7 


8 


9 


10 


II 


12 


13 


i/s 


*Y 


1S/8 


13/ 


1% 


2 


2^ 



Place dot 3 on line B the distance given in the neck table for 
dot 3- Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C. to 

dot 3- Place dot 4 ° n line A the length of back measure 

below dot 2- Draft line D straight out. Place dot 5 

on line D Y\ inch from dot 4. Place dot 6 on line D one- 

half inch less then one-half of the combined width of centre 
back, side form and under arm shape, from dot 5 

Draft line £ beginning 3 inches below dot 2 and extend 3/ 
inch below dot 5- 

Place dot 7 T % inches straight in from the end of line £. 
Draft line F from the end of line £ to dot "J. Draft 

line G straight straight down from dot 7. Place dot 9 on 

line B 6/4 inches from dot 3- Place dot |0 3 l A inches 

straight down from dot 9- Place letter A on dot 3 the 

edge of curve on dot |Q and draft line ]\ one-half inch less than 
the proportionate shoulder measure. Place dot |2 straight 

down from the end of line \\ the distance given in the table 
according to arms eye measure. 



Arms Eye. 
Dot |2 


7 


8 
2% 


9 

2/ 


10 
3 


11 
3Ya 


12 

3Y 


1 13 



Place letter K on dot |2 and draft line J to the end of line ||. 
Place letter Q on dot |2 and draft line K extending / inch 
below dot 6. 




COAT COLLAR. 

Draft dress lines A & B. Place dot 2 on line A i inch more 
than y 2 of neck measure from line g. Place dot 3 on line g 
3 inchas from line A, Place letter Q on dot 3 and draft line 
C to dot 2 . Place dot \ on line A K inch from dot 2. 

Place dot 5 — 2 inches straight out from dot 4. Draft line 
D from dot 2 to dot 5, Place dot 6 on line g 3^ inches 

from dot 3. Place dot ~]— iy 2 in. straight down from dot 6, 
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft line \ to dot 7, 
Place letter N on dot 7 and draft line f to dot 3. 



SAILOR COLLAR. 

Draft line A 1 inch from the edge of cloth. Draft 

line B 5 inches up from the lower end of cloth. Place 

dot 2 on line A the distance from line B given in the front 
neck table for dot 2 "according to size of neck." Place 

dot 3 on line B the distance given in the front ' neck 
table for dot 3. Extend line A down 2 inches from 

line B. Measure 2 inches straight out from the end 

of line A and place dot 4. Place the corner of the 

square on the junction of lines A and B, the edge on dot 4, and 
draft line out 6^2 inches. Place letter C on dot 2 

and draft line D through dot 3 extending to line C. 
Place the edge of square even with line C and draft line E out 
4^ inches from the end of line C. Place dot 5-3 inches 

above dot 2. Draft line F straight out about 5 inches. 



Place letter Fi^ inches down from the end of line F and draft 
line G from the end of line F to the end of line E. The 

dotted lines show the different ways of shaping the collar. The 
neck and shoulder measure is all that is required. Place 

line C on the fold of the goods and there will be no seam. 
This collar makes a very n : ce square or round yoke. 



MEDICI COLLAR. 



Place dot 2 on line A 



Draft lines A & B. 
Yz of neck measure from line g. 

Place dot 3 on line B 4 inches from line A, Place dot 4 online 
B 4 inches from dot 3. Place letter f on dot 4 and draft line 
Q to dot 3, Place dot 5 on line & Yi oi the neck measure from 
line B. Place dot Q— 2 y 2 inches straight out from dot 5. 

Place letter Y on 
dot 2 and draft line Q to dot 6- Place letter Y on dot 6 and 
extend line Q to dot 3. Place dot 7 on line A 1 % inches 

from dot 2. Place dot 8—3 inches straight out from dot 7 . 

Place point of curve on dot 2 and draft line E to dot 8 
Place the X point of the curve on dot ft and extend line F to 
dot 4. 



STANDING COLLAR. 

Draft line A % inch from the edge of cloth. Draft line 

B zH inches straight out from the lower end of line A and place 
dot 2. Measure up line A from line B Y /z of the measure 

around the neck of the dress and place dot 3. Draft line 

C 3}i inches straight out from dot 3. Place dot 4 on line 

C 2 inches from dot 3. Draft line D from the end of line 

C to dot 2. Place dot 5 on line B 1^ inches from dot 2. 

Place dot 6 on line D % inch from dot 2. Draft 

line E from dot 5 to dot 6. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft 
line F to dot 4. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft line G 

to dot 3. 



These Collars are drafted on the right bias of the Goods. 



A Lk- 



3-u. 



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'St ? 



a / 


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c 


y v 


I £ 




1 < 




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9 

2nd PANEL. 




FRONT. 




1st side panel. 




No. 407. 



FRONT. 

Use the fold of the goods for the centre of the front. Draft line 
B straight out from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on the fold 
of the goods \ inch below line B. Place dot 3 on hne B :£ - 
■inchca lnnm thin \ of the waist measure from the fold oh, 
goods. Place dot 4 i inch in from dot 3. Place letter Qf 
on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B x 
inch out from dot 3. Place dot 6-9 inches straight down from 
dot 5. Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 

6 and draft line J) down 1^ inches more than skirt measure. 
Place letter R on dot 4 and draft line E to dot 6. Place dot 

7 on the fold of goods 1 inch more than skirt measure from dot 
2. Draft line E straight out from dot 7. Place the end of 
the tape line on dot 4 and draft a curved line from the end of 
line D to meet line E. 

FIRST SIDE PANEL. 

Use the edge of the goods for line A. Draft line B \ inch 
from the end of goods. Place dot 2 ° n line B l \ inches from 
the edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B and from dot 2~ \ 

of the waist measure. Place dot 4 — | inch in from dot 3. 
Place letter H on dot 4 and draft line C to dot 2- Place dot 

5 on line B 4 inches straight out from dot 3- Place dot 6 

9 inches straight down from dot 5. Place the corner of square 
on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft line B 2 inches more than 
the length of the skirt. Place letter R, on dot 4 and draft line 
E to dot 6. Place letter Q- on dot 2 and draft line E to 
meet the edge of goods 9 inches from line B. Place dot 7 on 
the edge of goods down from line B ! f inches more than the 
skirt measure. Measure straight down from dot 4 — 2 inches 
more than the length of the skirt and place dot 8. Draft line 
G- from dot 7 to dot 8. Place the end of tape line on dot 4 
and draft a curved line from dot 8 to the end of line D, 

second side panel 

Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B \ inch from 
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B one inch from the 
edge of goods. Place letter Q- on dot 2 and draft a curved 
line to meet the edge of goods 9 inches below line B. Place 
dot 3 °n line B and from dot 2 — \ °f the waist measure. 
Place dot 4 on line B 3l inches out from dot 3. Place 

dot 5 — 9 inches straight down from dot 4. Place the corner 
of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 and draft line C 2 inches 
more than the skirt measure. Place dot Q on line B \ inch in 
from dot 3. Place letter H ° n dot Q and draft a curved line 
to dot 5. Place dot 7 on line C 2 inch below dot 6. 

Place letter H on dot 7 and draft line D to dot 2. Meas- 

ure down the edge of goods from line B 2 inches more than the 
length of skirt and place dot 8. Measure straight down from 
dot 3 — 2 inches more than the length of the skirt measure and 
place dot 9 Draft line E from dot 8 to dot 9 Place the 

end of tape line on dot 3 and draft a curved line from dot 9 to 
the end of line Q 

BACK 

Use the edge of goods for line A Draft line B 2 inch from 
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B 4 inches from the 
edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B I of the waist measure 
from dot 2 Place dot 4 — \ inch straight down from dot 3 
Draft line C from dot 4 to dot 2 Draft line B from dot 2 so 
as to meet the edge of goods 2 inches more than the skirt length. 
Measure straight down from dot 4 — 2 inches more than the skirt 
length and place dot 5 Place the corner of the square on the 
end of line B-the edge on dot 5 and draft line E out 2 4 inches. 
Draft line E from dot 4 to the end of line E Measure down 
line E from dot 4 — 2 \ inches more than the skirt length and 
place dot 6 Place dot 7 one inch straight out from dot 3 
Place end of tape line on dot 7 and draft curved line C to dot 5 

The French way to finish the lining of the skirt is to turn back 
the lining and stitch the material separately and press. Then 

place one side of the lining flat over the seam and tack with a 1 \ 
inch stitch, then turn edge of the opposite lining in \ inch and 
fell down. 






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£ 

p 


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o 

3, 


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fa 


1 U 


H 


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U 




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ir 


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No. 400. 

USE FRONT OF 407. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. (Draft line B straight 
acr olein, end of goods. Place dot 2 on) line A 2j^ inches be- 
low line B. Place dot 3 on line B, }4£less than y of waist 
measure. Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line C to dot 2. 
Place dot 4 on line C one inch from dot 2. Place dot 5, y& of 
waist measure from dot 4, Place dot 6, i j4 inches from dot 5. 
Place dot 7, 3^ inches straight down from dot 6. Place letter 
A on dot 5 and draft line D to dot 7. Reverse the curve and 
draft line E. Place letter M on dot 4 and draft to meet the 
edge of goods 9 inches down from dot 2. Measure down the 
fold of goods 1^ inches more than the skirt length and 
place dot 8. Draft line F straight out from dot 8-2 inches 
more than }4 of waist measure. Place dot 9- 1 inch straight up 
from the end of line F. Draft line G from dot 8 to dot 9. 
Place dot 10 on line B 8 inches from dot 3. Place dot 11-9 in- 
ches straight down from dot 10. Place the corner of square on 
dot 3 the edge on dot 11 and draft line H 2^ inches more than 
the skirt- length from dot 3. Hold the end of tape line on dot 
3 and draft from the end of line H to dot 9. 

Cut on drafted lines, y x inch is allowed for seams. 

BACK. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B y 2 inch from 
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line B 10 inches from edge 
of goods. Place dot 3 on line B % of waist measure from dot 
2. Place dot 4 on line B 2 inches out from dot 3. Place 
dot 5-9 inches straight down from dot 4. Place the corner of 
square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 and draft line C 2% inches 
more than the length of skirt measure. Measure down from 
dot 2 so as to meet the edge of goods 2% inches more than the 
skirt measure. Place the end of the tape line on line B y^ the 
distance between dots 2 and 3 and draft a curved line from the 
end of line C to the end of line of D. 

The French way to finish the lining of the skirt is to turn back 
the lining and stitch the material separately and press. Then 
place one side of the lining flat over the seam and tack with a 
ij<2 inch stitch, then turn the edge of the opposite lining in y 2 
inch and fell down. 

No. 75. 

USE THE FRONT OF NO. 407. 



Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B y, inch from 
the edge of goods. Place dot 2 on the edge of goods 8$4 inches 
from line B. Place dot 3 on line B 4 inches more than y of 
waist measure from line A. Place dot 4 on line B half way be- 
tween line A and dot 3. Place dot 5 on line B y the waist 
measure from line A. Draft line C 4 inches straight out from 
dot 2. Measure down the edge of goods from dot 2- 1 }4 inches 
more than the skirt length and place dot 6. Draft line D 8 in- 
ches straight out from dot 6. Place dot 7 on line C one inch 
from dot 2. Place letter U on dot 7 and draft to meet the edge 
of goods 9 inches below dot 2. Place dot 8-2 inches straight 
out from the end of line C. Place dot 9-4 inches straight 
down from dot 8. Draft lines E & F from the end of line C 
and dot 8 to dot 9, use the y inch mark. Place dot 10-6 inches 
straight down from dot 5. Place letter H on dot 10 and draft 
to dot 8. Place letter V on dot 10 and draft to dot 3- Place 
dot 11 on line B 9 inches from dot 3. Place dot 12-5 inches 
straight down from dot 11. Place the corner of square on dot 
3 the edge on dot 12 and draft line Q. Place dot 13 on line Q 
3 y inches more -than the skirt length from dot 3. Hold end 
of tape line on dot 4 and draft a curved line from dot 13 to the 
end of line D. 







TAILOR BICYCLE SKIRT. 

FRONT. 

Use the fold of goods for the center of front. 

Draft line B y inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on 
the fold of goods, y inch below line B. Place dot 3 on line B, 
Yi of the waist measure from line A. , Place letter H on dot 3, 
and draft line C to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods the 
length of skirt, and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out 12 
inches, from dot 4» Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line 
D. Measure down line E from dot 3 the length of skirt, and 
place dot 5. Place letter R on dot 5, and draft line F to meet 
line D 3 inches from the fold of goods. 

SIDE. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B % inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on 
line A, y x inch below line B. Place dot 3 on line B y, of waist 
measure from line A. Place letter Hon dot 3 and draft line C 
to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods the length of skirt 
measure, and place dot 4. Draft line D straight out 12 inches 
from dot *4. Draft line E from dot 3 to the end of line D. 
Measure down line E the length of skirt measure, and place dot 
5- Place letter R on dot 5 and draft line F to meet line D 3 
inches from dot 4. 

BACK. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B y inch from the end of goods and out 20 inches. 
Place dot 2 on line B y inch from line A. Place letter M on 
dot 2, and draft line C to meet line A 6 inches from line B. 
Measure down line B from line A the length of skirt, and place 
dot 3. Draft line D 20 inches straight out from dot 3? Draft 
line E from the end of line B to the end of line D. 



A good way to finish this skirt is to stitch the seams on the 
right side of the goods, and cover with the band of cloth or braid. 
This will make the skirt reversible. 



BICYCLE BLOOMERS. 

Use the fold of goods for line A. 

Use the end of goods for line B. 

Place dot 2 on the fold of goods 2 inches below line B. 
Place dot 3-1 % inches straight out from dot 2. Place dot 4 on 
line B 2 inches more than y 2 of waist measure from line A. 
Place dot 5 on line A 9 inches below dot 2. Place letter M on 
dot 3 and draft line D to dot 5. Place dot 6 on line A the dis- 
tance of outside leg measure from dot 2. Place dot 7 on line A 
one inch less than y 2 of the outside leg measure below dot 2. 
Place the short arm of square even with line A, the corner on dot 
7, and draft line E straight out beginning 12 inches from dot 7. 
Place dot 8 on line E-3 inches more than y^ of the hip measure 
from dot 7. Place dot 9 on line E 3^ inches in front of dot 8. 
Place dot 10 on line E 5 inches in from dot 8. Place dot 1 1 on 
line E 5^ inches in from dot 8. Place dot 12-7 inches straight 
up from dot 9. Place dot 13-8 inches straight up from dot 11. 
Place dot 14 on line B one inch out from dot 4. Draft line C 
from dot 14 to dot 2. Draft line F from dot 14 to dot 12. 
Place letter H on dot 8 and draft to dot 12. Place the point of 
curve on dot 4 and draft line O to dot 13. Place letter K (on 
the curve) y, inch in from dot 8 and draft to dot 13. Measure 
7 inches straight down from dot 10 and place dot I5« Place 
dot 16- 5 inches more than the measure around the ankle straight 
out from dot 6. Place letter Q on dot 8, and draft line H to 
dot 15. Place letter O on dot 15. and extend line H one inch 
below dot 16. Draft line 1 from the end of line Q to dot 6. 
MEASURE— Waist, 24 Hips, - - - - 38 



- - 24 
Outside ~L<t% Measure - 37 



Ankle 



9*A 



•r & 



w.+.<*A 



f 

a- 




£ 


\ 

^ 






& 





\ \ 



To Locate Dot 12. 

38 and 39 — Two inches more than one-half 

skirt length. 
36 and 37 — One inch more. 
34 and 35 — One-half skirt length- 
32 and 33 — One inch less. 



_2 jL 




DIVIDED SKIRT. 

Front. 

Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B }4 inch from 
the end of goods, out 15 inches. Place dot 2 on the fold of 
goods 1 % inches down from line B. Place dot 3 on line B> 5 
inches less than % of the waist measure from line A. Place 
letter F on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3- Measure down the 
fold of goods from dot 2 the length of skirt measure and place dot 
4. Draft line D straight out from dot 4 about 15 inches. 
Place dot 5 on line B 4 inches out from dot 3- Place dot ^-8 
inches straight down from dot 5. Place the corner of square 
on dot 3, the edge on dot 6, and draft line E, down one inch more 
than the skirt measure. Place dot 7 on line 84^ inches from 
line A. Place dot &-% inch straight down from dot 7. 
Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line F to dot 2. Measure 1 1 
inches straight down from dot 3 and place dot Q« Place the 
corner of square on dot 8, the edge on dot 9 and draft line Q down 
14 inches and place dot 10. Place dot 11 on line E 15^ inches 
from dot 3. Place the O point of curve on dot 10 and draft 
line H to dot 11. Place dot 12 on line E 2 inches more than Yz 
the length of skirt down from dot "• Hold the end of the tape 
line, on dot 3 and draft a curved line from the end of line F to 
meet line D 9 inches from dot 4. Hold the end of the tape 
line on the junction of lines A and B, and draft a curved line 
from dot 12 to meet line D 9 inches from dot 4. 

Back. 

Use the fold of goods for line A. Draft line B straight out 
Yz inch below the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A 3^ 
inches below line B. Place dot 3 on the fold of goods 1 inch 
more than the length of skirt measure below dot 2. Draft line 
C out from dot 3 about 15 inches. Place dot 4 on line & 2>Y 
inches less than Y> of waist measure from line A. Place dot 5 
on line B 4 inches from line A. Place dot 6-2^ inches straight 
down from dot 5. Place letter V on dot 2 and draft line D to 
dot 6. Place letter T on dot 6 and draft line E to doj, 4. 
Place dot 7 on line B 4 inches from dot 4. Place dot 8-8 inches 
straight down from dot 7. Place the corner of square on dot 
4, the edge on dot 8 and draft line F down one inch more than 
the length of skirt measure. Measure down line F from dot 4- 
x^Yi inches and place dot 9- Measure 9^ inches straight down 
from dot 4 and place dot 10. Place letter K on dot 9 and draft 
line Q to dot 10. Place letter S on dot 10 and continue line Q 
to dot 6 Place the corner of square on dot 5, the edge on dot 
9 and draft line H 2 inches more than Y* or the skirt measure 
from dot 9- Place the end of tape line on the junction of lines 
A and B, and draft curved line J from the end of line F to meet 
line C 4 inches from dot 3. Place the end of tape line on dot 
2, and draft a curved line K from the end of line H to meet line J. 




No. 1. 



Q) cQ 




No. 2. 



RIDING SKIRT. 
No. I. 

t Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B ]/ 2 inch from 
the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A 5 inches down from 
line B. Place dot 3 one inch straight out from dot 2. Place 
dot 4 on line B ^ of the waist measure from line A. Place dot 
5-4^ inches straight down from dot 4. Place letter F on dot 

5, and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 6 on line B 2^ inches 
from dot 4. Place dot 7-3^ inches straight down from dot 6. 
Place dot 8 on line B-i^ inches from dot 6. Place dot 9-13 
inches straight down from dot 8. Place letter H on dot 5, and 
draft line D to dot 9. Place letter U on dot 7, and draft line E 
to dot 9. Place dot iO on line B ^ of waist measure from dot 

6. Place the O point of curve on dot iO, and draft line F to 
dot 7. Place dot n on line B 4^ inches from dot iO. Place 
dot 12- 1 y 2 inches straight down from dot 11. Draft line Q from 
dot iO to dot 12. Place letter Jl on dot 3, and draft line H to 
meet line A 9 inches below dot 2. Place dot 13 the length of 
the skirt measure below dot 2 and on line A. Draft line I 20 
inches straight out from dot 13. Draft line J from dot 12 to end 
of line I. 

No. 2. 

Draft lines A and B y^ of an inch from the edge and end of 
goods. Place dot 2 on line A 3 inches below line B. Place 
dot 3 on line A 4^ inches below dot 2. Place dot 4 one inch 
straight out from dot 3. Place dot 5 on line A 3 inches below 
dot 3. Place dot 6-10 inches straight out from dot 5. Place 
letter H on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 6. Place letter R on 
dot 4 and draft line D to dot 6. Measure down line A from dot 
5 the length of skirt measure and place dot 7. Place dot 8 one 
inch straight out from dot 7. Draft line E from dot 4 to dot 8. 
Place dot 9 on line B 8 inches from line A. Place dot iO on 
line B 6^ inches from dot 9. Place dot 11- 12 inches straight 
down from dot iO. Place dot 12 on line B6^ inches from dot 
iO. Place dot 13 4 inches straight down from dot 12. Place 
letter H on dot 9 and draft line F to dot 13. Place letter R on 
dot 11 and draft line Q to dot 13. Place the corner of the 
square on dot 1 1 , the edge on dot iO and draft line H straight 
out. Place dot J 4 at line H 8}4 inches from dot 11. Place 
dot J 5-4 inches straight up from dot 14. Place letter F on dot 
11 and draft line I to meet line H 3^ inches from dot 11. 
Place letter T on the end of line I and draft to dot 15. Place 
dot 16 on line H 5^ inches from dot 14. Place dot 17-2 )4 
inches straight up from dot 16. Place letter T on dot 17 and 
draft line J to dot 15. Place dot 18 on line H 2% inches from 
dot 16. Place dot 19-i,}4 inches straight down from dot 18. 
Place letter F on dot 17 and continue line J to dot 19- Place 
dot 20 on line H 3 inches from dot 18. Place dot 21 12 inches 
less than the skirt measure straight down from dot 20. Con- 

tinue line J from dot 19 to dot 21. Place the corner of the 
square on dot 21 and draft line K straight in 24 inches. Place 
dot 22 on line K, 12 inches from dot 21. Place dot 23-7 inches 

straight down from dot 22. Place dot 24- 10 inches straight 

down from the end of line K. Place letter R on dot 21 and 
draft to dot 23. Place letter R on dot 23, and draft to dot 24, 
Place letter S on dot 24 and draft to dot 8. 




No. 3 




POCKET. 



No. 3. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. 

Draft line B y x inch from top of goods. Place dot 2 on the 
edge of goods g inches below line B. Place dot 3 on line B y 2 
inch more than 1-12 of the waist measure from line A. Place 
dot 4-7 inches straight down from dot 3. Place letter N on dot 
2 and draft line C to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B 3 inches from 
dot 3. Place dot 6-4 inches straight down from dot 5. Place 
dot 7 on line B 1-12 of the waist measure from dot 5. Place 
dot 8-3 inches straight down from dot 7. Place letter K on dot 
6 and draft line D to dot 8. Place dot 9 on line & 3}4 inches 
from dot 7. Place dot 10 one inch straight down from dot 9. 
Place letter K on dot 10 and draft line E to dot 11. Place a 
dot on line B y 2 the distance between dots 7 and 9, and measure 
straight down nj^ inches and place dot 12. Place letter Q on 
dot 4, and draft line F to dot 12. Place letter H on dot 6 and 
draft line Q to dot 12. Place dot 13- 10 inches straight down 
from dot 11. Place letter Q on dot 8 and draft line H to dot 13. 
Place letter H on dot 10 and draft line I to dot 13. Place dot 
14 on line B 3 14 inches from dot 11. Place dot 15-5^4 inches 
straight down from dot 14. Place dot 16 on line B 10 inches 
from dot 14. Place dot 17-14 inches straight down from dot 16. 
Place letter R on dot 11 and draft line J to dot 15- Place letter 
R on dot 15 and continue line J to dot 17. Place dot 18-3J4 
inches straight down from dot 17- Place dot 19-3^ inches 
straight out from dot 18. Place letter N on dot 19 and draft to 
dot 17- Place dot 20-5 inches straight down from dot 19. 

Place dot 21-1^ inches straight out from dot 20. Place letter 
J on dot 19 and draft to dot 21. Place dot 22-2 inches straight 
out from dot 21. Place dot 23-11 inches less than the skirt 
length straight down from dot 22. Continue line J from dot 21 
to dot 22. Measure down the edge of goods from dot 2-2 inches 
less than the skirt measure, and place dot 24. Place dot 25 on 
the edge of goods 12 inches below dot 2. Place dot 26-4 inches 
straight out from dot 25. Place letter S on dot 26 and draft 
line K to dot 2. Place dot 27 on the edge of goods, 8 inches 
below dot 25. Place dot 28-4 inches straight out from dot 27. 
Place letter G on dot 26, and continue line K to dot 28. Con- 
tinue line K from dot 28 to dot 24. Place dot 29-4 inches 
straight down from dot 24. Draft line L from dot 29 to dot 23. 
Place dot 30 on line L 12 inches from dot 26. Place dot 3I-4 
inches straight up from dot 30. Draft line M from dot 24 to 
dot 31. Place dot 32 on line L 10 inches from dot 30. Place 
dot 33-3 inches straight up from dot 32. Place letter S on dot 
33 and continue line M to dot 31. Place letter R on dot 23, and 
draft to dot 33. 






_S £ 



«* "D 




MISSES SKIRT. 

Front- 
use the fold of goods for Hue A. Draft line B straight 
across the end of goods. Place dot 2 on. the fold of goods one 
inch from line B. Place dot 3 on line B % of waist measure 
from the fold of goods. Place letter R on dot 3 and draft line 
C to dot 2. Measure down the fold of goods one inch more 
than the skirt length and place dot 4. Measure 12 inches 
straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. Draft line E from dot 
3 to dot 5. Measure down line E 1% inches more than the 
skirt length and place dot 6. Place letter R on dot 6 and draft 
line D to dot 4. 

Side Panel. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B straight 
across the end of the goods. Place dot 2 on the edge of goods 
3 inches from line B. Place dot 3 on line B y 2 of the waist 
measure from the edge of goods. Place letter E on dot 2 and 
draft line C to dot 3. Measure down the edge of goods ij^ 
inches more than the skirt length and place dot 4. Draft line 
D straight out from dot 4- Place dot 5 on line D 6 inches from 
dot 4. Place dot 6 on line D 8 inches from dot 5. Place dot 
7 on line D 6 inches from dot 6. Place dot 8- 1 y 2 inches straight 
up from dot 6. Place dot 9-4 inches straight up from dot 7. 
Place letter M on dot 5 and draft to dot 8. Place letter U on 
dot 8 and draft to dot 9. Place dot 10 on line B 4 inches from 
dot 3. Place dot 11-4^ inches straight down from dot 10. 
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 11 and draft 
line F 2 inches more than the skirt length from dot 3. Place 
letter S on the end of line F and draft to dot 9. 

Back. 

Use the edge of goods for line A. Draft line B straight 
across the end of the goods. Place dot 2 on line B 4 inches 
from the edge of goods. Place dot 3 on line B J^ of the waist 
measure from dot 2. Draft line C from dot 2 to meet the edge 
of goods 2 inches more than the skirt length. Measure 
straight down from the center of line B 3 inches more than the 
skirt length and place dot 4. ' Place letter G on the end of line 
C and draft line D to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B 2 inches 
from dot 3. Place dot 6-6 inches straight down from dot 5. 
Place the corner of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 6 and draft 
line H 2 inches more than the skirt length. Place letter H on 
the end of line H and draft to dot 4. 





Waist . / .24 
Outside Leg Measure 42 
Hips . . .40 

Knee . . .12 

Ankle . -9% 



TROUSERS. Front- 

Draft line /y 74 inch from the edge of goods. Draft line 

B *4 inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on line A one 

inch more than % of outside leg measure from line g. Place 

dot 3 on li ne B 3 inches from line A. Place dot 4 on nne A 

4^ inches below line B. Place dot 5 one inch straight out 

from dot 4- Place letter Q on dot 3 an d draft line Q to dot 5 
Place letter Q on dot 5 an d continue line Q to dot 2- Place 

the corner of the sqnare on dot 2, the short arm even with line 
A, and draft line Q out 5 inches beginning 8 inches from dot 2 



Place dot g on line and from dot 2 — 2 inches more than 74. 



of 



the hip measure. Measure down line A from line B the length 
of outside leg measure and place dot 7. Place dot 8 on line 

B % of waist measure from dot 3- Place dot 9 — 2 J4 inches 
from dot 3 on line B- Place dot | one inch from dot 9- 

Draft the dart so that the lines will meet 4 inches below the 
center of the dart. Place dot | | on line Q 2 inches in from 

dot 6- Place dot | 2 2 ^ inches straight up from dot | | . 

Place letter /I on dot 8 an d draft line E to dot | 2- Place 

letter Q on dot | 2, an d continue line E to dot Q. Place dot 

I 3 — 6 inches straight down from dot | | . Place dot | 4 — 

1 2 inches straight down from dot | | . Place dot | 5 one 

straight in from dot | 4 ■ Place letter |) on dot 6 an <i draft 

line F to dot |3, Place letter JJ on dot | 3 a nd extend 

line p to dot | 5- Place dot | 6 — 272 inches less than 

the measure around the ankle straight out from dot 7 
Continue line p from dot | 5 extending }4 inch below dot | 6 
Place letter fj\ on the end of line p and draft line Q to dot 7' 

TROUSERS.Back. 

Draft lines A & B 72, inch from the edge and end of goods. 
Place dot 2 on line A 3^ inches below line B- Place dot 

3 on line B Vi of the waist measure from line A • Place 

letter ft on dot 2 an d draft line Q to dot 3- Place dot 4 on 



line C T/ 6 of the waist measure from dot 2- 



Place dot 5 on 



line C l Y? inches from dot 4- Place dot g — 8 inches straight 

down from dot 3- Place the corner of square on dot 4> the 

edge on dot 6 an d draft line D down 4 inches. Draft line £ 

from dot 5 to the end of line Q. Place dot "J on line A t}4 

inches below dot 2- Place dot 8 — r K inches straight out 

from dot 7- Place dot 9 one inch straight out from dot 8- 

Draft line F from dot 2 to dot 8- Draft line £ from dot 8 

to dot 9- Place dot | Q on line /\ one inch more than % of 

of leg measure from dot 2« Place the short arm of the square 

even with line A, the corner on dot | 0, an d draft line || out 8 

inches, beginning 14 inches from dot | 0- Place dot | | on 

line H 2 inches less than 72 of hip measure from dot 1 Q. 

Place dot | 2 on line A 5 inches below dot | 0- Place dot |3 

4 inches straight out from dot | 2- Place letter $ on dot 9, 

and draft line J to dot | 3- Place dot | 4 °n line A. 7 inches 

down from dot | 2- Place |5 — 472 inches straight out from 

dot |4. Place letter (J on dot |5 and draft to dot |3" Place 

dot |6 on line /\ below dot 2 the length of outside leg measure. 

Place dot |7 — 4 inches straight out from dot | 6- Extend 

line J from dot 15 to dot | "J. Place dot | 8 on line B 5 inches 

from dot 3- Place dot \ 9 — 6% inches straight down from 

dot 1 ft. Place letter H on dot 3 a nd draft line K to dot | 9. 

Place dot 20 on lin e H 3/i inches in from dot 11. Place dot 

2 I — 5 inches straight up from dot 20* Place letter p on dot 

I 9, and draft to dot 21- Place the point of the curve on 

dot 11 and draft to 21, Place dot 22 — 7 inches straight down 

from dot 20 ■ Place letter Q on dot 1 1 and draft line L to dot 

22- Place dot 23 — K °f the knee measure straight out from 

dot 15. Place letter Q on dot 22 a °d extend line L to dot 23- 

Place dot 24 straight out from dot 17, the measure around the 

ankle. Extend line L ft'om dot 23 to one inch below dot 24- 

Place letter $ on the end of line L, and draft to dot f V- Place 

a dot % inch outside of the end of line L, and draft to meet line 

L — 4 inches up. Place a dot % inch in from dot |7, and draft 

to meet line J — 4 inches up. 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR 
MAKING. 

SKIRT. 

Draft the skirt linings according to 
instructions. Place the goods on the 
table right side up and see that they are 
perfectly smooth. Place the fold of the 
front lining even with the fold of the 
goods, bottom at the lower end of goods, 
and pin firmly, then cut the goods. In 
cutting the side gores place the straight 
edge of the lining even with the sel- 
vedge of the goods and pin fast and cut. 
Cut the other gores in the same man- 
ner; always see that the thread of the 
lining and the thread of the goods run 
the same way. Cut the stiffening to 
match each separate piece having the 
thread of the stiffening run the same as 
the thread of the goods. This can be 
cut any desired width; from 10 to 18 
inches is best. Many of the new cuts 
have the stiffening run up to the waist 
line in the 3 back widths or Godet's. 
The stiffening can be basted on the 
wrong side of the lining with a stitch 3 
or 4 inches long. Now stitch across 
the top without turning in. Then pin 
the outside material on the wrong side 
of the lining so that the stiffening will 
come between the lining and the goods. 
Baste through the centre of the front 
with a 1% inch stitch, beginning at the 
top and fastening the thread off at the 
bottom of skirt, then baste at each side 
2 inches from the edge beginning at the 
top and basting down and across the 
bottom. Baste the remaining parts in 
the same manner. 

Place the bias side of the front to the sel- 
vedge of the first side gore pinning the 
seam down V 2 inch from the edge. Ex- 




VJF- 






<*0fo\.^ d'j&.ooiSS • 



trem e care must be taken not to stretch the bias edge. Now baste, 
using a y 2 inch stitch. It is absolutely necessary to have all 
seams perfectly straight, and to do this it is best to have a long 
straight rule (about 45 inches), and mark a line just outside of 
the basting to guide the stitching. Stitch with the bias side 
down next to the feed, stitching one side up the other down. 
Remove the basting and turn the seam evenly ready for bind- 
ing or overhanding. 9 

Pressing. — Care should be taken to prevent wrinkles forming 
on the material when pressing, as it is quite impossible to re- 
move a wrinkle formed by the iron ; open the seam well before 
placing the iron on ; bear well on the iron when pressing so as to 
give a flat seam. Turn the skirt right side out and place on 
the table. Take the centre of the front and pin in the double 
at the top. Now pin the corresponding seams together at the 
top, then the centre of the back, draw each seam down evenly 
and pin at the bottom. Take tape measure and measure down 
the centre of the front the length of the front skirt measure and 
mark. Now measure down the first seam y 2 inch more than 
the skirt measure and mark, measure down the centre of the 
gore the same distance and mark. The next seam (or directly 
over the point of the hips) should be one inch longer than the 
skirt measure; make the remaining part of the skirt the same 
length. When the back measure is shorter than the front, the 
difference should be taken from the top of the skirt sloping 
from the point of the hips back. Trim the bottom of the skirt 
y inch longer than you have marked. Now turn up the bot- 
tom y inch and baste down, then catch to lining, being 
careful that the stitch does not come through. (If a facing is 
desired, cut about 6 to 8 inches deep on the bias and stretch 
slightly at the bottom so as to prevent too much fullness at the 
top, tack the bottom with a medium stitch, turn in the top and 
fell down to the lining of the skirt.) To put the velvet on the 
bottom, fold the velvet over y 2 inch and place it on the bottom 
so that it will drop % inch below the edge of the skirt, then 
turn the velvet in at the top and fell down. 

Make the placket hole (from 9 to 10 inches long) on the 
left side, in the seam that joins the back to the side 
gore and face the opposite side to the fly, which should be 
about one inch deep and finished in the double; the facing can 
be about 1% inches deep and fastened firm across the bottom. 
Cut the band 2 inches longer than the waist measure making it 
one inch wide, turn in the band y 2 inch on each end, place the 
end of the band on the edge of the fly and measure 1^ inches 
less than } 2 of the waist measure and pin to the centre of the front. 
This will give 1 y 2 inches on each side which must be fulled on 
to the band. The back can be pleated or gathered on the re- 
maining 3 inches; now pin the band on and baste with a firm 
stitch, then sew on by hand or machine and finish with a large 
hook and eye. Place hangers on each side of the inside of the 
belt. 

SKIRT YOKE. 

Use the fold of the goods for line A. Draft line B one 

inch from the lower end of goods. Measure up the fold 

of goods 6% inches and place dot 2. Place the end of 

tape line on the junction of. line B and the fold of goods and 
draft a curved line C from dot 2 to line B. Place dot 3 

on line C 2 inches from dot 2. Place dots 4 5 & 6 2 

inches apart on line C. Place dot 7 one inch from dot 6. 

Place dot 8-5 inches straight up from dot 7. Place the 

corner of square on dot 6, the edge on dot 8, and draft line D 
out 10 inches. Place the corner of the square on the 

junction of line B and the fold of goods, the edge on dot 2, and 
measure out and make a dot according to the size of waist 
measure. See " Waist Measure" and see " dotted l.ne. " 

Now place the edge of square on dots S, 4, 5 & 6 and make a 
dot in the same manner according to waist measure. 
Draft the curved line placing letter J (on the curve) on the first 
dot and draft from dot to dot. 

This will give you the correct shape of the waist line. The 
yoke can be made any desired width but must be shaped at the 
back according to line D. 





CAPES. 

Draft line A i i ncn from edge of cloth. Draft line B 5 

inches from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A accord- 

ing to neck measure. See table for distance. 



Dot 2 


5 3 A 


6 


63/ 4 


6y 2 


6M 


7 


1% 


Neck s ; ze 2 


9 


10 


1 1 


1 2 


13 


14 


15 


Dot 3 


ey 


6%& 


6# 


7 


7^ 


lYx 


J fa 



Place dot 3 on line B and from line A according to neck 
measure — see table for distance. Draft line C straight 

ont from dot 2-6 inches. Place dot 4 on line C i>4 

inches from dot 2- Draft line D 6 inches straight down 

from dot 3. Place dot Si^ inches up from dot 2 on 

on line A. Place dot §-% mcn i n from dot 3 on line B. 

Place short arm of square on dot 5 the long arm on dot 6 
and place dot 7 at the point of square. Place point of 

curve on line C. 1 % inches from dot 4 and draft line E to dot 
7 (use the round curve edge). Place point of curve on 

dot 7 and extend line E to meet line D 2 inches from dot 3 
(use same curve as before). Place dot 8 on line E 

down y inch from dot 7- Place dot 9 on line E y 

inch up from dot 7- Place dot 10 on line B i>4 inches 

from line A. Place edge of square on dots IO and 7 

and measure out 3 inches from dot 7 and place dot 12. 

Draft lines F and G from dot 1 2 to dots 8 and 9- 

Place letter M on dot 4 and draft line H to meet line A 1 1 
inches down from dot 2- Measure out from dot 3-9 inches 
on line B and place dot 1 3- Place dot 14-2 inches 

straight up from dot 13. Place edge of square on dots 3 

and 14 and draft line 'J straight out. Measure down from 

dot 2 the length desired and place dot 1 5 on line A. 

Draft line K 7 inches straight out from dot 1 5 . Measure- 
out from dot 3 on line B iy 2 inches more than the front meas 
ure and place dot 16. Draft line L straight down 6 inches. 

II old the end of tape line on dot 7 and draft a curved line 
from the end of line K to the end of line L. 



CIRCULAR CAPE. 

The neck measure and length are all the measures that are 
necessary. If the goods are wide enough to cut without a seam 
then fold the goods and measure up the fold the length that you 
wish the cape and place dot 2. Place dot 3 one- sixth of 

the neck measure from dot 2. Stick a pin through the end 

of the tape line and in dot 3 and draft a curved line beginning 
at dot 2. Without removing the pin or tape line, measure 

down the fold of the goods the length that you wish the cape 
and draft a curved line. If the goods are not wide 
enough to cut without a seam then use the selvedge in the place 
of the fold, this will make a seam in the center of the back only. 
Allow for seam in cutting out. 





ii. Place dot il~% inch out from 

dot ii. Place letter G on dot 10 and 

draft line J to dot 12. Draft line K 

straight from dot 12 to line A. 
Cut on lines F, C and K. Allow y 2 

uich seams ov. lines D H and J. 



BOYS SHIRT WAIST. 

Draft line j\ 1 finches from the edge of cloth. Draft 

iine B Y from end of cloth. Place dot 2 on line A and 

from line B the distance given in the front neck table under dot 2 



Dot 2 


i# 


*H 


2 


*% 


2% 


2% 
13 


3 


Neck size 


8 


9 


10 


I I 


12 


14 


Dot 3 


2^8 


2 y 


2"/i 


3 


3/8 


sY 


3 3 A 



Place dot 3 on line B and from line A the distance given in 
the front neck table under dot 3 Place letter C on dot 3 

and draft line C to dot 3. Place dot 4-6^ inches 

troiii do 1 3 and on line B. Place dot 5-2 y 2 inches straight 

down from uoi 4 Place letter A on dot 3"and edge of 

curve on dot 5 and draft line D the proportionate length of shoul- 
der (see table). Place dot 6 straight down from the point 
of shoulder Y2 inch more than y of the arm's eye measure 
Place the short arm of square on line A the long arm on dot 6 
and draft line E out from dot 6-3inches. Without moving 
the square place dot 7 on line A at the corner of the sp/hare . 

"With out moving the square "place dot 8 on-line £ 1% inches 
more than % of the bust measure from dot 7. l^fTr Place dot 9— 
iy inches straight up from dot 6. Place letter D on dot 9 
and draft line F to dot 8. Place the O point offthe curve 
on dot 9 and extend line F to point of shoulder. * Place dot 
10 the length of under arm below'dot 7 and line \. Draft 
line G straight out from dot 10. " Place dot 11 on line G 
and from dot 10 one inch more than % of the waist measure. 
Draft line H from dot 8 to dot 11. Place dot 12'one inch 

straight out from dot 11 . Place dot 13— 4?% ? inche"s straight 
down from dot 12. Place letter A on dot lFand draft line 

J to dot 13. Draft line K straight in from dot 13 to line A. 

The dotted lines show the width of the plait in front. 
Cut on lines C and F. Allow y 2 inch seam on lines T, 

H and D. 

SHIRT WAIST, BACK. 

Use the fold of the goods for line A. Draft line B ^ 

inch from the end of goods. Place dot 2 on the 

fold of goods and from line B the distance given in the table 
for dot 2 according to size of neck. 



Dot 2 


n 


y 


S/8 


Neck size 


8 


9 

1/8 


10I 11 

2 \2}i 


ia ; 131*4 


Dot 3 


2^|2^|2^ 



Place dot 3 on line B and from line A the distance given in 
the table for dot 3 according to size of neck. Place the 

point of curve on dot 2 and draft line C to dot 3. Place 

dot 4 on line S 614 inches f^m dot 3. Place dot 5-ij4 

inches straight down from dot 4. Place letter A on dot 3 
and edge of curve on dot 5 and draft line D the proportionate 
length of shoulder, Place dot 6 % inch more than y of the 

arm's eye measure straight down from the point of shoulder. 
Place short arm of square on line A the long arm on dot 6 and 
draft line E out 3 inches from dot 6. Without moving the 

square place dot 7 on line E one inch more than y of the bust 
measure from line A- Place the point of the curve y 

inch in from dot 7 on line E and draft line f to the point of 
shoulder . Place dot 8 the length of the back measure below 

dot 2 and on line A Place dot 9 straight down from dot 

7 the length of under arm measure. Draft line G from 

dot 8 to dot 9. Measure out from dot 8 1 % inches more 

than y of the waist measure and place dot 10 on line 
G. Draft line H from dot 7 to dot 10. Measure 

at sight down from dot JO — 4^ inches and place dot 




^ 


e /*> 


m 








^ 






<V 


\>y 


\ 




d 


* 




1 $ 


1 u. 





Oo 


> 











9 



^ 



pi 



MEASURE FOR PRACTICE, 8 YEARS. 

Chest ... 25 



Waist 


2 3 


Back 


"K 


Under Arm 


5^ 


Neck 


10 


Arm's Eye 


9 


Length in Back . 


21 



NECK BAND. 

Draft lines A and B. Measure up line A from line B 

Y> of the shirt neck measure and place dot 2. Draft line 

C straight out 2^ inches from dot 2. Place dot 3 on line 

Ci^ inches from dot 2. Place dot 4 on line 62^ 

inches from line A. Draft line D from the end of line C 

to dot 4. Place dot 5 on line B one incn from dot 4 

Place dot 6 on line D ^ inch from dot 4. Draft line E 

from dot 6 to dot 5. Place letter Q on dot 5 and draft 

line F to dot 2. Place letter Q on dot 6 and draft line Q tG 

dot 3. Allow % inch for seams on lines Q and F. 

BOY'S COAT-BACK. 

Draft lines A and B ^ inch from the edge and Upper end^of 
cloth. Place dot 2 on line A the distance given in 

the table for back neck under dot 2, according to size of 
neck. 



Dot 2 




% 




3 A 




y 2 


Neck Size 


7 


8 


9 


10 iir 


1 2 


13 ! 14 


Dot 3 


1 


t'ji 


*% 


i# 


i# 


1^8 


*tt\ I# 



Place dot 3 on line B the distance from line A given in table 
under dot 3. Place point of curve on dot 3 and draft line 

C to dot 2. Place dot 4 on line B 6% inches f" m r n ot 3 

Place dot- S 3 3 A inches^"straight 'downTfrom dot 4 
f lace point of square on dot 3 the edge on dot 5 ano ^ 
draft line J) 1 inch longer than 'the proportionate length of 
shoulder. See table: Place'dot 6 straight down from the 

point of shoulder the distance given in tne table according to 
arms' eye measure. 



1 Arm's Eye Measure 


7 -8 


9-10 


II 


12 


13-H 


lt'Dot-6 


2/2 


2 3^ 


3 


3% 


3% 



Place dot ~] >£ b inch straight in from dot 6- Place 

the point oLcurve on dot 7 t "and draft line £ to the point of 
shoulder, g^i Measure down line A from dot 2 the length 
of back measure and place dot 8- Without moving the 

square place dot 9 on li ne A and from dot 2 the length of 
coat. Draft line p straight out from dot 8- Place dot 

10 on line p % inch in from dot 8- Draft line Q beginning 6 
inches below dot 2 and drafting to dot \Q. Extend line 

G to meet line A 5 inches belo-v line r . i J iace dot 11 

on line F 2 inches less than % of waist measure from dot 8. 

Place letter Q on dot 7 and draft H to dot 11. 

Draft line J straight out from dot 9. Place dot 

1 2 on line J % inch more than the distance between dots i0 and 
11. Extend line H from dot 11 to dot i2 straight. 



Folding Square . 
Plain Square 
Curved Rule 
Instruction Book 
Measure Book 
Double Tracing Wheel 
Sateen Tape Lines 
The "Acme" Shears, 6 inch 
" " " 8 " 



French Bust Forms, Cloth Covered 
Streeter's Tailoring Irons, Set . 



$2.50 

1.50 

1.50 

1.50 

25c. 

25c. and 50c. 

ioc, 25c. and 50c. 

90c. 

$1.00 

125 

2.50 

1 75 



A REWARD will be paid for information of any infringement on our 

copyrights. 

Vienna Ladies' Tailoring Institute, 



BOY'S COAT-FRONT. 

Draft line A 2 inches from the edge of cloth. Draft 

f line B one inch from the upper end of cloth. Place dot 

j 2 on line A and from line B the distance given in the table for 
[ front neck under dot 2 according to size of neck. 




Dot 2 


7% 


2^ 


2^ 


3 


3K':3 l A 


3 3 A\ 4 


Neck Size 


7 | 8 I 9 

1 1 


10 


II 12 


l 3 


M 


Dot 3 


yA\ 4 


4/8 


4% 


4^14/^ 


4 S A 


4K 



Place dot 3 on line B and from line A the distance given in the 
table for front neck under dot 3. Place dot 4 on line B 

6Y-z inches from dot 3 Place dot 5-3/^ inches straight 

down from dot 4. Place corner of square on dot 8 the 
edge resting on dot 5 and draft line C-% inch more than the 
proportionate length of shoulder (see table). Place letter G 

on end of line C and draft a curved line to dot 3 (see diagram). 
Place tne snort arm of the square even with line B the edge 
of long arm on the point of shoulder and draft line D straight 
dow n (see diagram;. Draft line E — i}i inches straight out 
from dotj2. Place letter C on the end of line E and extend 
line'E to dot 3. Place^dot G—J4 of the arm's eye measure 
below dot' 2"and on line A.. Draft line F straight out be- 
ginning- 6 inches fmrn dot 6. Place dot 7 on line F i# 
inches less than Z A of tne chest measure from dot 6. Measure 
down line'D" k from linefF the length of under arm measure and 
place dot • 8- ^P 1 ace [short arm off square even with line A, the 
long arm'on r dot 8. and[draft*line G out from line A one inch 
more than % of the waist measure and place dot 9. Place 
the corner of square on dot 7 the edge on dot 9 and draft line 
H down about 18 inches. Place the corner of square on dot 
9 the edge on dot 7 and measure up the distance between dots 
11 and 7 in the back and place dot 1 Place point of curve 
on dot 10 and draft curved line to meet line H about 6 to 8 
inches below dot 9. Measure up line D one inch from line 
F and place dot U Place dot |2 — 1 finches straight in from 
dot U towards line A. Place the X point of the curve on 
dot |0 and draft to line F (See diagram ) Place the 
point of curve on dot |2 and draft to the junction of lines F and D 
Place letter K on dot !2 and draft to the point of shoulder. 
Measure down line H from dot 9 the distance between dots || 
and |2 in the back and place dot |3- Measure down from dot 8. 

one inch more than the distance between dots 9 and 13 and place 
dot 14. Place letter R on dot i3 and the edge of the 

curve on dot 14 and draft line J to pass through dot 14-2 inches. 
Place the point of the curve on the end of line J and draft to 
the junction of lines G and A- 

To draft this coat double breasted, follow the dotted line 

In cutting goods with a nap be careful to have it run in the 
proper direction. 

Cut the collar on the bias of the material. 





BOY'S COAT SLEEVE. 

UPPER SLEEVE. 

Draft line f^-% inch from edge of cloth. Draft line 

B-1'2 inches from lower end of cloth. Place dut 2 on 

line A one inch from line B- Place dot 3 on line B an d 

from line A- 2 inches less than the measure around the hand. 
Draft line Q from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A 

one inch less than half the length of the sleeve from line B- 
Place dot 5-^inch straight out from dot 4. Place dot 6 

straight out from dot 5-^4 inch less than j£ of arm's eye 
measure. Place dot 7 on line A and from dot 4 one inch 

more than }4 of the length of the sleeve. Draft line Q 

straight out from dot 7 about 9 inches. Place dot 8 on 

line A~3^ inches below dot 7. Place dot 9 on line \)-}i 

inch less than }4 of the arm's eye measure from dot 7. 
Place dot 10 on line \)-}4 inch less than ^ of arm's eye 
measure from dot 7. Place dot 11 one inch straight 

down from dot 10. Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line 

E to dot 5. Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to 

dot 8. Place the point of the curve on dot 9 and draft 

line p to dot 8. Place the point of the curve on dot 11 

and draft line G to dot 9. Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line 

H to dot 11. Place letter |V) on dot 6 and extend line H to dot 3. 

TO CUT OUT. 

Allow 1% inches on the lower end for facing (see diagram). 
Allow X inch for seams on lines £and \\. Cut on lines FandG- 

UNDER SLEEVE. 

Draft line A % inch from edge of cloth. Draft line B 

\Y 2 inches from the lower end of cloth. Place dot 2 on 

line A one inch from line B- Place dot 3 on line B 3 

inches less than the measure around the hand from line A- 
Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A 

one inch less than ^2 of the length of sleeve from line B. 
Place dot 5-j4 inch straight out from dot 4, Place dot 6 

straight out from dot 5—)4 inch more than % of the arm's eye 
measure. Place dot 7 on line A % °f the length of 

the sleeve from dot 4. Place dot 8 on line A 2 /i inches 

down from dot 7. Place dot 9-^ inch below dot 8 on 

line A- Place dot 10 straight out from dot 7~}4 of the 

arm's eye measure. Place the point of the curve on 

dot 9 and draft line D to dot 10. Place the point of the curve 

on line D 2 inches out from dot 9 and draft to dot 8 (see dia- 
gram). Place letter S on dot 2 and draft line E to 
dot 5. Place letter S on dot 5 and extend line E to dot 
8. Place letter S on dot 6 and draft line F to dot 10. 
Place letter G on dot 6 and extend line F to dot 3. 

TO CUT OUT. 

Allow 1% inches on the lower end for_ facing (see diagram). 

Cut on line D. 



Allow % inch for seams on lines E an d F. 



BOY'S COAT COLLAR, 

Draft lines A and B. Place dot 2 on line A ^ inch 

from line B. Place dot 3 on line B 2 inches from line A. 

Draft line C from dot 2 to dot 3. Place dot 4 on line A 

one inch more than half of neck measure from dot 2. 
Draft line [) 3 inches straight out from dot 4 and place dot 5. 
Place letter H on dot 3 and draft line E to dot 5. Meas- 

ure % inch out from dot 4 and draft a slightly curved line t > 
meet line A about 2 inches from dot 4 Line E sews on the 

coat. Cut the collar on the bias both canvass and goods. 

MEASURE FOR BOY 8 YEARS. 

Chest, 25 I Back, 12}^ I Neck, 10 I Sleeve, 17 

Waist, 23 I Under Arm, 5^ | Arm's Eye, 9 | Hand, 7 

Take the measure around the chest smooth not tight. Take 
the waist measure rather snug. Back measure from large joint 
in neck to waist line. Under arm measure well up under the 
arm to waist line. Arm's eye measure one inch below the 
point of shoulder, tight. Neck measure, around the bare neck, 
smooth. Sleeve measure, from point of shoulder to wrist; 
areviacl hand, tight. 



BOY'S KNEE PANTS. 




Draft lines A. and 



Po\.A H<tv<Z-_ 



I T 



f*s 




FRONT. 

^ inch from the edge and end of 
cloth. Place dot 2 on line B % inch from line A.. 

Place dot 3 on line B Vz inch less than % of the waist 
measure from dot 2, Place dot 4 on line A about 6 inches 

below line B. Place letter f^ on dot 4 and draft line C 

to dot 2 1 Measure down line A from line B the outside 

leg measure and place dot 5, Draft line D straight out 

from dot 5, Place dot 6 — Yi inch inside of dot 5, 

Measure up line A from dot 5 the inside leg measure and place 
dot 7 1 Draft line E from dot 7 to dot 6 extending one 

inch below dot 6, Draft line F straight out from dot 7. 

Place dot 8 on li ne F Vz inch less than y^ of the hip measure 
from dot 7 ■ Place dot 9 otl line D y? inch less than y 2 of ' 

the measure around the knee from dot 6- Measure one 

inch straight down from dot 9 and place dot | 0, Draft line 

G from the end of line E to dot | 0- Place letter H on 

dot | and draft line H to dot 8- Place the corner of 

square on dot 3 the short arm on line B and draft J straight 
down to line F. Measure up line J 2 inches from line F 

and place dot | | . Place letter D on dot | | and draft line 

K to dot 8- Allow y& inch for seams on lines C, E, H, 

J and K. Cut on lines B and G. 

BACK. 

Draft lines \ and B Y\ inch from the edge and end of 
to waist measure — "see table." Place dot 3 on line B 1% 



Dot 2 


2% 


2 X /2 


2% 


3 


Z% 


Waist Measure 


20 21 


22 23 


24 25 


26 27 


28 29 



inches more than % of the waist measure from line A- 

Draft line C from dot a to dot 3. Place dot 4 one inch 

from dot 3 on line C- Place dot 5-1% inches from dot 4 

on line Q. Place dot 6-^ inch from dots on line C- 

Pbce the coi i\er of square on dot 6 the ed.f" Pven with line P,. 

ana draft line D down about 4% inches. Draft line E trom 

the end of line D to dot 5. Place dot 7—1 % inches straight 

down from dot 3. 3g| |Place the corner of square on dot 4, the 

edge of the short arm on dot 7, and draft line F down distance 

of the outside leg measure. Measure down line F from dot 

4-6 or 7 inches and place dot 8 P> raft line & m towards 

line A one inch from dot 8- Draft line H ivor ? x dot 2, t0 

the end of line G-W& Measure straight downline A from dot 

2—y 2 inch less than the outside leg measure and place dot g. 

Draft line J straight out from dot 9. Measure up line A 

from dot 9 the length of inside leg measure and place dot 

I n Draft line K straight out from dot | P lace 

dot I I on line J y 2 inch.from line F and towards dot 9. 

Place dot | 2 one inch straight down from dot | | . _rla ce 
letter M on dot I and draft line L so as to meet line Jb 2/2 
inches below line K. Place dot | 3 on line K and from 

line F t V 2 inches more than % of the measure around the hips. 

1 Place dot I 4 on line J % inch more than y of the measure 
around the knee from dot | | . Place dot | 5 one inch straight 
down from dot | 4. Draft line M from dot | 2 to dot | 5. 
Place letter H on dot | 5 and draft line N to dot | 3 " r [ ace 
dot I 6 on line K 2 inches in from dot | 3. -^ace dot 1 / 

2 inches straight up from dot | 6- 

letter C on dot 17 and aratt nne to dot 13. Ex ten J 

line from dot 17 to dot 3 straight. Allow ^ inc:i 

seam on lines L, N and 0. Cut on lines C, H and M. 

MEASURE FOR PRACTICE. 8 YEARS. 

Waist, 24; Hips, 34; Inside leg Measure, 10; Outside Leg meas- 
ure, 18; Knee, n%. Take the waist and hip measure easy, 
not tisfht. 



HAVE YOU... 

SEEN A COPY OF THE 

pa^is euoiTion 



. .OF. 



4i 



Toilettes" 

It is a magnificent book, and contains 
more illustratrations than any other 
monthly fashion magizine in the world. 

r*" Most of the black and white drawings are the same useful and practi- 
cal styles published in the American eaition, with many additional half 
tone engravings of millinery, children's costumes a»id fancy worU, enter- 
taining articles on many subjects. 

Besides eight large fashion plates of 
latest Paris styles* beautifully .colored 
in the newest shades .... 

A new department, which is fcnow as our '-Pictute Gallery," issues 
teery month and gives free to each yearly subscriber a fine half-tone engrav- 
4ng, size HVi x 16 inches, of some noted person or place. 

These engravings alone will be worth 
double the price asked for a year's 
subscription 

The cost of this edition is so great that we charge a small amount 
■thirty cents for a sample copy . 

Sold by Subscription only at $2.50 for One 

Year; $1.50 for Six Months, or 

$1.00 for Three Months. 

SEND 30 CENTS FOR SAMPLE. 

Toilettes Publishing Co. 



126 West 23d Street, 



NEW YORK 




Drama 



The most comprehensive book on this subje« 
ever published, every detail showing the advantag 
of the tailor system and methods. Also giving ful 
instructions when paper patterns are used. Th£ 
book should be in the hands of every ladies' tailor^ 
dressmaker, seamstress and every lady that does her 
own sewing. The author (Miss Klug) was formerly 
a teacher in this institute, and we know her to be. 
perfectly competent 
Send orders to us. 



ix titit nnlM 

Home Te acher of Millinery . 

This is the only publication of the kind printed. 
Anyone at all bright, and following the instructions, 
can readily acquire the art of Millinery, as every 
point, from the making of wire frames to the final 
finishing of the hat or bonnet, is fully explained. 

This book we cannot recommend too highly. 
Madame Melcher, the author, is the principal 
teacher in our Vienna Millinery Institute, and is 
very competent. 

Price $1.50. 

Send orders to the 

VIENNA MILLINERY INSTITUTE, 

%2 East 14th Street 



i22£ Y 0F CONFESS 




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